Years ago, while touring a winemaking facility in France’s southern Rhone region, I noticed a stack of boxed wine.
“Will that wine be traveling to the U.S. anytime soon?” I asked the winemaker.
“No,” he promptly replied. “Americans won’t drink wine from a box, even if it’s really good wine.”
Asked about the virtues of boxed wine, I’ll sometimes joke, “It’s not the box’s fault that someone put bad wine in it.” Putting wine in a box isn’t a new concept; the idea dates back to the mid-1960s. Initially, the taps leaked and allowed air inside, but improved taps now prevent oxidation and are easier to use. In fact, being able to dispense single glasses of wine without worrying about oxygen spoiling the contents is the main reason to consider a box.
Some boxed wines are marketed with the names of French or Italian growing regions when, in fact, the wine has nothing to do with those places. Premium boxed wine is more often labeled with the correct variety, more akin to how bottles are packaged. Black Box and Bota Box, for instance, are two premium brands available for around $18. They list the grape variety on the box; the grapes come from California, South America, or another recognized growing region. The comparably priced Finca los Romeros Tempranillo, a Spanish boxed wine, is another nice, food-friendly example.
Of course, sommeliers won’t be serving wine from a box at fine-dining establishments anytime soon, and that’s probably OK. But boxed wines shouldn’t be overlooked as a way to enjoy a decent glass of wine on a Tuesday night, when you just don’t want to open a bottle. Let’s throw away the misconceptions and have that French winemaker send his wine— only this time in a box, please.
