Photo by Thomas Crone
After being tucked away for years in an industrial stretch along Manchester Avenue, Modern Brewery recently opened a new, larger taproom in a not-so-hidden location: just south of Forest Park at 5200 Oakland, the former home of Bloom Café. The space also houses a dining concept, Kings Oak, with both businesses operating under Modern’s ownership.
The Atmosphere
Photo by Thomas Crone
The sprawling taproom has an airy vibe, with white subway tile and high black ceilings. A bar stretches across the backside of the space, with black paneling and 16 tap handles. Four- and eight-top tables provide the bulk of seating, along with some rails for sitting or standing.
A smattering of sports-themed art hang on the walls, along with a few Grateful Dead–inspired Jerry Bear illustrations. (A Deadhead's apparently in the house—the music also played on the speakers during a recent visit.)
There's an expansive patio, though the retaining wall was recently damaged from flash flooding and might not reopen until next spring.
The Menu
Photo by Thomas Crone
Citrapolis is still the beer most associated with Modern, though the brewery also offers such year-round options as Party Supplies (a New England hazy IPA) and Disco Punch (a kettle sour). A variety of seasonal and short-run brews (for instance, dunkel, a Mexican lager, and Imperial stout) are also among the options from the 16 taps. To-go cans are also available from a cooler.
While designing the new tasting room, Modern Brewing founder Beamer Eisele was mindful of pandemic-era service trends. Patrons access the menu via QR codes on each table. "We don’t have servers," says Eisele. "We have bartenders who work their tails off.”
As for the food? Kings Oak chef Charles Hess and sous chef Dakota Kolb have created a tightly curated menu. While you’ll find some typical offerings (a chicken sandwich, burger, Caesar salad, Brussel sprouts, French onion soup), other dishes have a New Orleans inflection. Hess says the hushpuppy recipe was inspired by a recent visit to NOLA, for instance, and the gumbo’s on point.
Courtesy of Modern Brewery
Porchetta pastrami and a BLT sandwich, both on focaccia
Photo by Thomas Crone
The Background
Modern Brewery debuted in 2014 in an industrial space at 5231 Manchester, with an in-house tasting room opened the following year. Modern's business steadily grew over time, in large part thanks to its flagship Citrapolis IPA being served on taps and in cans across town. Yet its taproom remained off the beaten path—and then closed permanently during the pandemic. (The brewing operations remain in the flagship location.)
Eisele says he felt the rougher-hewn room lacked the necessary amenities for a growing business, and food trucks never fully clicked at the space. At the new space, however, Eisele sees "endless opportunities," with a large kitchen, patio, and taproom. "We can throw down on some really cool events, both inside and outside," he says. "And it’s easily visible, unlike our last place.”
Beginning next week, the hours will be 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 11 a.m.–midnight Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Sunday. (Check the brewery’s Facebook page and website for the latest.)
