Illustration by Matt Lehman
St. Louisans loved Famous-Barr so much, author Edna Campos Gravenhorst’s book about the beloved department store sold out after its first printing. Much of our nostalgia revolves around the St. Louis Room, the downtown store’s tearoom.
It was a voyage into sophistication for many. Ladies in hats and gloves, young gentlemen in ties, and girls in scratchy party dresses sat up straight. Models swirled by, stopping at tables to explain what they were wearing and tell diners where it could be found in the store.
This was a world of club sandwiches stabilized with frill-topped toothpicks and pink cocktails. There were signature dishes, chief among them the French onion soup. Chef Manfred Zettl’s version—thick with long-simmered onions and topped with slices of baguette and gooey Swiss cheese—is the best-known. It must have been incredibly exotic when it was introduced. Zettl brought in a crew of bakers just for the French bread, another unusual item, sold in the stores’ bakeries.
At least Zettl’s recipe survives—for those willing to slice five pounds of onions. While you’re at it, weep for the loss of the St. Louis Room.
