Wine drinkers have a tendency to label the world’s major wine-growing regions. France produces fine, expensive wines. California offers oaky, oft-overblown wines. Spain serves value-driven wines. South America has inexpensive, fruity wines. Germany and Austria make sweet wines that are difficult to pronounce. Australia churns out overripe plonk for Yellow Tail lovers. So where does that leave Italy?
Ask wine drinkers which country’s vino they prefer, and you’ll rarely hear Italy. Maybe it’s because the varietals don’t include cabernet, pinot noir, or zinfandel. Whatever the reason, passing up Italian wines is a major mistake. Today, Italian winemakers are using modern techniques to create well-made wine from glorious old vines at centuries-old vineyards. The results deserve to be on the tip of your tongue.
Pinot Grigio
That’s right. I said it. If you want to appear in the know, then order pinot grigio. No, I’m not talking about the skin-fermented versions like rosé that some sommeliers chase like foragers to morels. I’m talking about the great versions, from Alois Lageder, Bastianich, Dorigo, or my favorite, Jermann. These wines have depth and personality, but they’re also clean and crisp. They work wonders with lighter dishes at the beginning of any meal.
Chianti
Some people scoff at the mere mention of Chianti or hide it under other groceries at the store. What they should realize is that Chianti has come a long way over the past decade. This classic wine’s popularity has grown thanks to a reduction in yields and the elimination of lesser grapes. Producers like Selvapiana, Isole e Olena, Felsina, and Flaccianello della Pieve—to name just a few—offer some amazing versions that pair well with tomato-based dishes.
Sicilian Wines
While many people are aware of the Nebbiolo-based wines of Italy’s Piedmont region, few are aware of the gems from Sicily. Vineyards are being planted on the sides of volcanoes, and modern techniques are being employed across the island. In less than 10 years, the region has come to produce some of the most distinctive, value-driven, food-friendly offerings in the country. Look for the Tenuta delle Terre Nere, COS, Arianna Occhipinti, and Planeta. Made from grapes like Nerello Mascalese, Frappato, Cerasuolo, and Nero d’Avola, these wines move the soul and excite the mind.
A former sommelier at The French Laundry, Hoel serves as a senior wine advisor for Soutirage, a Napa Valley wine merchant and advisory firm.
