Jack MacMurray tapped to be new executive chef at the Boathouse

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Photo by Dan Jameson

Jack W. MacMurray III, known around St. Louis as “chef Jack Mac,” is the new executive chef at the new and improved Boathouse in Forest Park, slated to open in early April.

Last December, SLM  announced that Sugarfire Events (led by chef Mike Johnson and longtime restaurateur Charlie Downs) would be taking over the legendary, picturesque Boathouse and renovating the landmark in time for the 2018 season. It was one of the more popular restaurant stories of the year.

As soon as he knew that Sugarfire had secured the five-year contract, Johnson says he approached MacMurray, who says, "It didn't take me long to answer."

MacMurray’s resume runs like the Mississippi: long, deep, and wide. For nine years, he worked in Vail (at Blu’s and the Sonnenalp) before moving back to St. Louis, where he cooked or consulted at Annie Gunn’s, Candicci’s, Chandler Hill, Crazy Fish, Joe Buck’s, Kirkwood Station, Old Hickory Golf Club in St. Peters, Sage Urban American Grill (where he was also co-owner), and Wild Horse Grill. The popular, high-profile chef has won the Chef's Battle Royale at Taste of St. Louis and the Crystal Cajun Cook-Off in Soulard. MacMurray, 50, is an amalgam of culinary talent and hospitality, the perfect boniface for one of the city’s most cherished restaurants.

Since SLM’s initial article, the Boathouse team has slightly changed its tack. To prevent the long service times that plagued the business in the past, they were considering a move to fast-casual service but decided on a more creative solution. Since the kitchen was never large enough to adequately handle the number of seats (84 inside, 40 outside and under the eaves, plus another 150 on the patio), Downs says the decision was made to let the kitchen service only the primary seating areas.

The menu for the patio will be curated by a rotating group of local restaurants, pop-up style. The players (and the offerings) could change from week to week. “Just about everyone we’ve reached out to has expressed interest in this,” says Downs. “We’ll have a standard menu but be able to offer something fresh and new as well.” 

MacMurray says he'd also like to offer "salads, wraps, box lunches, grab-and-go items for people who want to picnic in the park."

Initially, the new Boathouse menu was going to feature many of the popular items from the company's roster of restaurants (sandwiches and smoked meats from Sugarfire, burgers and shakes from Hi-Pointe Drive-In, sweets from Sugarfire Pie, and desserts and the popular roast beef sandwich from Cyrano’s). With the arrival of MacMurray, that focus has changed. “You may still see all those things from time to time,” Downs says, “but you don’t hire a guy like Jack and then stifle his creativity."

The revised menu still includes a char-broiled burger made with Hi-Pointe's proprietary beef blend, a pulled pork sandwich, several cakes, pies, and Cyrano’s famous World’s Fair Éclair but also flair items from the Jack Mac playbook. The chef is most excited about the House-made Smoked Brisket and Provel Toasted Ravioli with Memphis Marinara.

Other menu highlights include:

• Buttermilk-brined Chicken Wings, Byrd & Barrel Hot Sauce, Herb Cracked Pepper Ranch
• Almond-encrusted Flash Fried Shrimp with Citrus Thai Sweet Chili Sauce
• Szechuan Sticky Pork Spare Ribs, Chilled House Sriracha Grenada Noodles
• House Salmon Gravlax, Citrus Crème Fraiche, Egg, Fried Shallots, Capers, Rye Toast

• Gingered Chicken Ramen
• Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque  
• Mesclun Salad with Radish, Pear, Goat cheese, Candied Pecans, Maple Raspberry Herb Vinaigrette
• Iceberg & Romaine salad, with Pimento, Black Olive, Salami, Shaved Red Onion, Provel and Parm Red Wine Dressing

• Smoked Prime Rib ‘Philly Special’, Bell Peppers and Onions, Provolone, BadaBing Roll
• BBQ Salmon Croissant, Butter Lettuce and Tomato, Crispy Onion Straws
• Grilled Chicken Cordon Bleu, Sugarfire ham, Dijonnaise, Gruyere
• Mac Daddy BLT, Avocado, Toasted Sour Dough, House Mayo

After 5 p.m.:

• Bacon-wrapped Pork Tenderloin, Sweet Potato Asparagus Hash, Spiced Cherry Glaze
• Andouille Sausage, Steak and Shrimp Penne Saute,  with Tomato, Spinach, Cajun Alfredo
• Arrabiatta Spaghetti Pomodoro, Roma Tomato, Basil Buerre Blanc (option to add Nonna’s Meatballs)
• Lemon Chicken Za’taar, Saffron Fig Couscous with Pickled Apple, Harissa Butter Broth
• Cedar Plank Salmon, Maple Mustard Glaze, Hominy Greens
• Grilled N.Y. Strip, Cracked Pepper Cabernet Butter, Steak Frites

For generations, Sunday brunch at The Boathouse has been a memorable occasion. MacMurray plans to do his part by keeping several lunch dishes and adding the following items, among others:

• Huevos Rancheros: crisp tortillas, breakfast potatoes, cheddar cheese, Rancheros sauce, three fried eggs, avocado puree and lime crema, salsa
• Sweet Potato Crust Quiche Florentine: spinach custard in a roasted sweet potato crust
• Sugarfire Smoked Brisket Hash: served with three over-easy eggs
• Boathouse Slinger: breakfast potatoes, griddled burger, three-cheese blend, fried eggs, red chili Colorado, and tomato relish
• Brioche French Vanilla Toast: Granny Smith apple compote, maple whipped butter, and syrup
• Breakfast Croissant Sandwich: scrambled eggs, bacon, American cheese, fried onion straws and sriracha aioli

Kid’s menus are still in development.

Cosmetic changes to The Boathouse's interior are nearing completion, says Downs. He's working with the original architect, Laurent Torno, who has provided original colors and finishes. A massive new tent was just added for special events, and all-weather concrete bar tops will soon be installed at both exterior bars.