It's a Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood

It’s easy to rattle off a dozen of the city’s most popular neighborhood restaurants,but it’s not so easy to define just what makes them so alluring. We define the quintessential neighborhood joint as the local gathering place, a bridge between the local dive bar and the special-occasion restaurant, with better-than-average—but affordable—food. After work, it shines like the neighborhood beacon, luring both nearby residents and the occasional wayward traveler. Herein, we mention the legendary classics, while focusing on the not-so-obvious places. Some of them, no doubt, are in unfamiliar neighborhoods. We trust you’ll get out and explore.

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NEWCOMERS ON THE RISE

These restaurants have quickly become neighborhood anchors.

Billy G’s–Kirkwood

If Kirkwood conjures up only calico and country kitsch, you probably haven’t spent any time on Billy G’s patio: a sleek, contemporary oasis suited to at least threeSt. Louis seasons (thanks to heaters, fireplaces, and umbrellas) and providing ideal spots for any customer, from the most raucous group to a quiet first-date couple. With a menu that skews Italian but includes sundry selections to keep even the pickiest clan satisfied, this place will convince you it’s not your grandma’s Kirkwood. 131 W. Argonne, 314-984-8000, billygskirkwood.com.

The Block

Pig is in, whether it’s on the menu as pork tenderloin, lardons, and bacon or it appears as decor in painted porcine silhouettes and sculptural figurines. Both locations of The Block—in Webster Groves and the Central West End—serve an abundance of pork products and other meats in a casually polished atmosphere. While the Webster flagship caters to date nights, the CWE location offers Saint Louis University employees a neighborhood lunch destination amid the more studentcentric cafés and pubs near campus. 146 W. Lockwood, 314-918-7900; 33 N. Sarah, 314-535-5100; theblockrestaurant.com.

Cleveland-Heath

Cleveland-Heath shows that a restaurant can be hip without the obligatory side of snark. Chef-owners Ed Heath and Jenny Cleveland are two of the nicest people in the business. But don’t let their earnestness fool you. They also kick butt in the kitchen—so much so, the restaurant continues to draw large crowds (roughly 3,500 people a week) who don’t mind the no-reservations policy. The soon-to-be-added sister spot next door will further cement its reputation as the coolest kid on Main Street in Edwardsville, Ill. 106 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-307-4830, clevelandheath.com.

Five Star Burgers

Former fine-dining chef Steve Gontram has found a recipe for success in Clayton and Kirkwood. Every day between 4 and 6 p.m., families come for the great deals: 5 Star sliders, fried-chicken sandwiches, and mini turkey and veggie burgers for $1.50 each. They stay for half-price drafts and $3.50 glasses of house wines, perfect for sipping in a relaxed environment where neighbors mix and mingle. 8125 Maryland, 314-720-4350; 312 S. Kirkwood, 314-394-2250; 5starburgersstl.com.

Izakaya Ren

Valley Park may be thousands of miles from Tokyo, but Izakaya Ren lives up to its name as a stellar take on the traditional Japanese drinking establishments known as izakaya. Offerings include an extensive menu of salty and savory bites, designed to complement beer and sake. Sushi lovers will find a roster of rolls and sashimi, while adventurous eaters can tuck into grilled fish collars and yakitori—small sections of meat and veggies grilled over coals and basted with tare (a culinary elixir of mirin, sake, soy sauce, and sugar). 2948 Dougherty Ferry, Valley Park, 636-825-3737.

Pastaria

With his fourth spot, restaurateur extraordinaire Gerard Craft has pulled off the unicorn of dining: an approachable place that’s kid-friendly and critic-approved. It’s not just the stellar pasta, pizza, and gelato that keep people buzzing; it’s also the impeccable service and convivial atmosphere. Craft’s knack for hiring the best in the business, who anticipate their customers’ every need, is evident at all of his ventures, but especially at Pastaria, where industry insiders and suburban families rub (tattooed and polo-clad) elbows without incident. 7734 Forsyth, 314-862-6603, pastariastl.com.

Water Street

In Maplewood, a suburb that’s so hip it seems more city than county, Water Street remains the stealth go-to destination for those in the know. Co-owners and siblings Gabe and Maria Kveton nod at the past with a nostalgic cocktail menu. (Basil Rathbone gets his own drink.) Yet the restaurant stays deliciously grounded in the present with entrées like lemon lasagna and seafood-and-chorizo stew. For the future? The expansive wine list will have even the most urbane oenophiles trying something new during the Friday late-night-movie happy hour. 7268 Manchester, 314-646-8355, waterstreetstl.com.

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A WEEK OF DINING SPECIALS

Where to grab a deal, from Monday to Sunday

Monday: Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

On Monday nights, this Benton Park beacon serves up a selection of $5 appetizers, including wings and burgers, in the lounge. But it’s the pizzas—particularly the Lumberjack (Provel and mozzarella with salami, ham, and Italian sausage)—that reign supreme. And if $5 is too dear, the lounge offers free appetizers on Tuesday nights. 1811 Pestalozzi, 314-773-8646, frazergoodeats.com.

Tuesday: Gallagher’s

There might be other specials that shine at Gallagher’s (like the fried chicken on Sundays), but Tenderloin Tuesday gives patrons the choice of an 8-ounce tenderloin, a 14-ounce Delmonico, or a 14-ounce New York Strip with a salad and side for $20. The savings will pay for the gas and then some. 114 W. Mill, Waterloo, Ill., 618-939-9933, gallagherswaterloo.com.

Wednesday: Biggies Restaurant & Bar

The $9.75 special that includes a prime-rib sandwich and a side regularly sells out on Wednesdays. The staff recommends upgrading your bread to garlic cheese for another dollar. Listen to them. Latecomers can opt for veal Marc’s or breaded pork chops for $18 and $15.95, respectively, after 4 p.m. 3332 Watson, 314-781-0060, biggiesrestaurant.com.

Thursday: West End Grill & Pub

On Oyster Night every Thursday, the West End Grill & Pub has something for both slurpers and nonslurpers. The former thoroughly enjoy the $1 Blue Point oysters on the half shell available during happy hour in the bar. There’s also a $10 hot oyster appetizer—oysters Rockefeller, oysters in blue cheese, etc.—that changes weekly. 354 N. Boyle, 314-531-4607, westendgrillandpub.com.

Friday: Riverbend Restaurant & Bar

On Fridays, the kitchen gets creative at Cajun/Creole hot spot Riverbend Restaurant & Bar. The seafood specials have included fried green tomatoes with a shrimp-and-crabmeat rémolaude, Creole stuffed peppers, seafood cannelloni, fried boudin (sausage) balls, spicy Cajun egg rolls, shrimp Dauphine, crawfish enchiladas, crabmeat au gratin, and a recurring fave, turtle soup. There are no bad choices here. 701 Utah, 314-664-8443, riverbendbar.com.

Saturday: Benton Park Cafe

It’s 3 a.m. on Saturday night, your gang is hungry, and the party must…not…end. Consider the quality calories at Benton Park Cafe, open 24 hours every Friday and Saturday. The steak sliders and the beer biscuits and gravy are plated with aplomb. And guess what? There are cocktails, too. 1900Arsenal, 314-771-7200, bentonparkcafe.com.

Sunday: J Greene’s Pub

We were told the secret is in the fried chicken’s beer batter, “made with local beer.” Perusing the dozen offerings from The Civil Life Brewing Company, Urban Chestnut Brewing Company, and the like, we gestured to the taps and asked which one. The reply—”Bud Light”—made us smile. So did the price: $11.95 for half a bird, served with two excellent house-made sides. 10017 Manchester, 314-394-2330, jgreenespub.com.

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VINO TO KNOW

Five under-the-radar wine bars

Cork Wine Bar

With live music, small plates, wine flights, 3- and 6-ounce pours, about 100 wines in total, and 30 or so craft beers, this Ferguson spot is great any night of the week. It’s a must if you’re seeing a show at the nearby Blanche M. Touhill Performing Arts Center. 423 S. Florissant, 314-521-9463, corkwinebarstl.com.

Ernesto’s Wine Bar

Wines here are segmented by style—light- through full-bodied—with a selection of flights for the undecided. The food offerings are as appealing as the wine list, with small plates, cheese, and charcuterie alongside a list of nightly entrées. 2730 McNair, 314-664-4511, ernestoswinebar.com.

One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar

Dimly lit, with a wine-cave feel, One 19 North focuses on food. But what its wine list lacks in depth (with about 50 choices), it makes up for in breadth, with almost as many varietals and blends as it has labels. 119 N. Kirkwood, 314-821-4119, one19north.com.

Rendezvous Café & Wine Bar

Located in St. Charles County, this gathering place is as much a cultural center as it is a wine bar, hosting live music, comedy, and book signings. But its wine cred is high as well, with more than 450 selections available. (Oh, and it’s open for breakfast.) 217 S. Main, O’Fallon, Mo., 636-281-2233, rendezvouscafeandwinebar.com.

Sasha’s on Shaw

It’s fair to say that Sasha’s puts the “hidden” in “hidden gem.” Venture beyond the tree-covered patio to find two rooms with rough-edged marble tables, an eclectic assortment of chairs from the Grandma’s Dining Room collection, and walls of wine bottles stored at acute angles in long columns, from the granite-cobbled floor right up to the rafters. 4069 Shaw, 314-771-7274, sashaswinebar.com.

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PICK A PIE

Our favorite neighborhood pizza joints

A’mis Italian Restaurant

The Rock Hill location has been satisfying cravings since 1982, baking up extra-large New York–style, Chicago deep-dish, and our beloved St. Louis–style thin-crust pies. 9824 Manchester, 314-963-1822; 3728 Monticello Plaza, O’Fallon, Mo., 636-329-8778; amispizza.com.

Anthonino’s Taverna

If there’s pressure involved in making one of the few non–St. Louis–style pies on The Hill, it doesn’t appear to faze the kitchen at Anthonino’s, where pizzas with piles of gooey mozzarella and an aggressive amount of toppings are the norm. 2225 Macklind, 314-773-4455, anthoninos.com.

Balducci’s Restaurant

Balducci’s is clubby and convivial. The garlicky, house-made Mayfest dressing is worth the visit, but the pizzas are a St. Louis classic. A supermodel-thin crust is shaped round, but cut square. It’s smeared with a slightly chunky sauce, topped with items like mushrooms and spicy pepperoni, and covered,of course, with Provel. Pair it with a beer or Balducci’s wines. It may well be St. Louis’ most iconic dinner. 12527 Bennington, 314-576-5024, balducciswineryandrestaurant.com.

The Daily Bread Bakery & Cafe

With the plethora of pastries, cakes, soups, sandwiches, and salads here, it took us a while to try one of the hearth-baked pizzas. Now we’re happy to buy our pizza and cookies under the same roof. 11719 Manchester, 314-909-0010, thedbcafe.com.

Felix’s Pizza Pub

Andy Roesch’s pizza is among the most underrecognized in town. It was true when he appeared on the scene three years ago, and it’s still true today. The current lineup includes 14 specialty pizzas, including the signature Baby Back Pie. 6335 Clayton Ave., 314-645-6565, felixspizzapub.com.

JJ Twig’s Pizza & Pub

The must-try pie is the Special: Copious amounts of cheese, savory sausage, onion, button mushroom, and green pepper ride atop and between two layers of flaky thin crust twisted to form a golden pizza collar. It’s tailor-made for dipping in ranch, or better yet, in wing sauce. 2964 Dougherty Ferry, Valley Park, 636-225-9945; 1090 Tom Ginnever, O’Fallon, Mo. 636-379-4446;  jjtwigsstl.com.

Onesto Pizza & Trattoria

For pizza nights in South City, we follow our nose to Onesto, where the heady scent of baking dough wafts out the door at this not-so-secret neighborhood gem. 5401 Finkman, 314-802-8883, onestopizza.com.

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HOT PLATES

The best dishes at local haunts

The Raul: The Crow’s Nest

Almost everything on the menu has an unexpected twist. In this case, it’s a Cuban sandwich (one that has a sibling namedThe Fidel) with Korean barbecue sauce on pulled pork. Relations are somewhat normalized by the addition of mozzarella and onions, but the sauce’s spice blend takes from each flavor according to its ability and gives to each diner according to his or her needs. 7336 Manchester, 314-781-0989, crowsnestbarstl.com.

Flat Iron Steak: Mad Dog & Cat’s Restaurant & Bar

Many aspects of this strip-mall neighborhood joint are mismatched. AC/DC plays on the sound system to a crowd that looks like it grew up on early Beatles. More to the point, this is a steakhouse masquerading as a bar, with half a dozen higher-end Certified Angus cuts. We prefer the flat iron steak, served with a slightly sweet Jack Daniel’s sauce. (It doesn’t hurt that it’s the cheapest steak on the menu, at $17.95.) 1005 Wolfrum, Weldon Spring, 636-300-9171, maddogandcats.com.

Hoosier Nachos: Southtown Pub

In the upstairs dining area, there’s a bar with 45 draft beers and a wall of whiskeys. Order the memorably named nachos, loaded with baked beans, barbecue sauce, pepper Jack cheese, banana peppers, sour cream, and pork or chicken. 3707 S. Kingshighway, 314-832-9009, southtownpub.net.

Agnolotti: Stellina

This spot in South City straddles the line between neighborhood place and destination restaurant. Given its former name, Stellina Pasta Café, you would do well to lead with the made-from-scratch pasta. And we haven’t found a version of agnolotti that we haven’t liked. The choices here change regularly, as do the weekend dinner specials, which are full entrées and much more elaborate creations. (Most re-cently, the plump, stuffed pasta featured goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes.) The filling and sauce combos are often inspired. 3342 Watson, 314-256-1600,stellinapasta.com.

Glazed Meatloaf: Quincy Street Bistro

When you’re picked as a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist for Rising Star Chef of the Year, your reputation spreads far beyond neighborhood boundaries. Rick Lewis has done just that with deceptively simple riffs on comfort food. His glazed meatloaf uses oatmeal as much as an absorption device as filler. It’s also bacon-enhanced, making for some memorable home-style cooking. Every entrée comes with a choice of sides, so go all-in with the bacon slaw. 6931 Gravois, 314-353-1588, quincystreetbistro.com.

Pan-Fried Chicken: Almonds Restaurant

If there’s a quintessential neighborhood restaurant for Clayton, this is it: It’s withinwalking distance of a large expanse of residential Clayton, and it’s classy yet unpretentious. There’s a whole lot of fried chicken in this town, but precious few restaurants do pan-fried; Almonds pulls off the variant that’s slightly less crispy but just as juicy as deep-fried. The sides of mashed potatoes and a vegetable are equally simple, but perfectly complementary. 8127 Maryland, 314-725-1019, almondsrestaurant.com.

Moroccan Spiced Pork Shanks: Three Kings Public House

Think of osso buco. Now think of a nice Greek preparation of lamb shank. Apply it to pork, and add some warm Northern African spices. The result: a lingering finish on a cut that’s at once firm and tender. It’s a signature dish at Three Kings, which has almost made us forget about our beloved Riddles Penultimate Cafe & Wine Bar, the longtime former occupant of the space. And now, we can visit a second Three Kings location, in the former Mosaic space in Des Peres. 6307 Delmar, 314-721-3355; 11925 Manchester; Des Peres, threekingspub.com.

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ALL AROUND TOWER GROVE PARK

There’s no shortage of dining spots within blocks of this South City neighborhood park.

Sandrina’s

This kick-butt kitchen pumps out duck-confit sandwiches, crab cakes, griddled-cheese sandwiches, pastas, and more until 2 a.m. Righteous beers, wines, and cocktails slosh until 3 a.m. Photos of Tennessee Williams, Tina Turner, Betty Grable, and other St. Louis celebs line the walls of the game room. Give ’em a wink. 5098 Arsenal, 314-601-3456, sandrinasstl.com.

Shaw Market

Standing out from other markets that dot the food-deserted landscapes of the city, Shaw Market was rebranded last year by the owner, Eritrean native Berhe Beyent, to get more wholesome food to his customers. Each week, the store celebrates Beyent’s heritage on Eritrean Wednesday, when you can get a to-go plate of ades (lentil stew) and alicha (salad) on injera for $8—perfect for walking over to the Whitaker Music Festival at Missouri Botanical Garden. 4200 Shaw, 314-771-3544.

Three Monkeys

A martini bike rack nods to the sporty vibe here. Area residents drink, eat, and bring families and friends to this neighborhood fave. With spicy Jungle Love nachos, the genteel Brie-L-T sandwich, and a crab-cake wrap, the menu covers enough territory to deliver good food and drinks. 3153 Morgan Ford, 314-772-9800, 3monkeysstl.com.

The Dam & Amsterdam Tavern

The Dam calls its neighbor “our bar.” The soccer-centric Amsterdam Tavern calls The Dam “our restaurant” because it delivers. Top-notch sandwiches paired with world-class beers? Why, it’s a match made in heaven. 3173 Morgan Ford, 314-771-3173, thedamstl.com; 3175 Morgan Ford, 314-772-8224, amsterdamtavern.com.

Olio

Where some people saw a dilapidated gas station and neighboring home, chef-owner Ben Poremba saw potential for a high-end restaurant and wine bar. It quickly became one of St. Louis’ premier dining destinations, thanks to his impeccably crafted food and a virtually unmatched wine list. 1634 Tower Grove, 314-932-1088, oliostl.com.

Mama Josephine’s

With a hodgepodge menu that hints at the Southern-by-way-of-Italy ancestry of the restaurant’s namesake, this is the kind of place where everyone feels at home as they tuck into heartwarming family classics like lasagna, meatloaf, and fried chicken. 4000 Shaw, 314-771-4001, mamajosephines.net.

Thurman Grill

It’s hard to imagine that Thurman Grill’s lived-in vibe is the result of a restaurant that’s only been open for eight years. Aptly located at the corner of Shenandoah and Thurman avenues, in the heart of the Shaw neighborhood, it quickly rooted itself as the spot for tired residents looking to walk to dinner or grab a beer on the patio. The grill even hosts regular beer and wine dinners. 4069 Shenandoah, 314-772-8484, thurmangrill.com.

MoKaBe’s Coffeehouse

This grande dame coffeehouse welcomes all with good food, sensible coffees and teas—but no alcohol. Enjoy McCann’s Irish Oatmeal, vegan burritos, and more for breakfast. Don’t miss the black-bean burgers, with or without guacamole. Visit the cozy balcony with coffee and a book or hang out at the bar. 3606 Arsenal, 314-865-2009.

Black Thorn Pub & Pizza

There are no wimpy pizzas here. The crust on the burliest, a Chicago-style pie, stands three fingers high. It’s filled with chunky toppings, nestled in zesty sauce and topped with gooey mozzarella. Graffiti-covered walls exhibit a charm that management insouciantly maintains. 3735 Wyoming, 314-776-0534.

The Shaved Duck

One of the first St. Louis restaurants to adopt the gastropub label and pay craft beer its due, The Shaved Duck suddenly rebranded to barbecue in early 2009—a tipoff to the boom ahead. Serving a limited selection of fantastic ’cue, it is one of the best, and the thoughtfully curated beer list continues to show that more options don’t always translate to better options. 2900 Virginia, 314-776-1407, theshavedduck.com.

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LOCAL COLOR

St. Louis establishments with unforgettable atmospheres

Broadway Oyster Bar

Broadway Oyster Bar feels almost illicit on quiet afternoons and like a dive bar in the back of the French Quarter when there’s music on the partly covered patio. For a long time, this was the only outpost hereabouts for Cajun/Creole cooking, and it still gets the job done when the urge for red beans and rice can no longer be ignored. 736 S. Broadway, 314-621-8811,broadwayoysterbar.com.

Cafe Manhattan

The retro decor reminds us of Happy Days or Archie comic books. The menu is full of diner and luncheonette classics, sandwiches, and salads, as well as pizzas. There’s no jukebox, but that’s good—listening to The Beach Boys would make it hard to eavesdrop on businesspeople grabbing lunch. You won’t find alcohol here, but you will find a brisk carryout business and families gathering after soccer practice. 505 S. Hanley, 314-863-5695.

Corner Bar and Grill

You’ll wonder whether you’ve been transported to South Grand, circa 1949. Corner Bar and Grill has lots of signs, a wonderful back bar, and a killer chicken-fried steak sandwich. A couple of three-pin bowling lanes are in the basement, but don’t try the stairs if you’ve had a couple of drinks. This classic place has all the charm of a VFW hall—and yes, we mean that in the very best way. 571 First Capitol, St. Charles, 636-724-9608.

Highway 61 Roadhouse and Kitchen

St. Louisans of a certain age will remember when this Webster Groves building was a record store. The decor still says music, as the namesake highway winds its way down to New Orleans. The food ranges from Cajun to Midwestern, with a popular Sunday brunch. There’s plenty of live music to go with the smoked wings, mac and cheese, and amiably rowdy locals of all ages. It’s not much of a spot for a romantic chat, but it’s fun. 34 S. Old Orchard, 314-968-0061, highway61roadhouse.com.

Iron Barley

In the shadow of Interstate 55 as it winds past Carondelet, this deeply casual spot has managed to snag several national TV appearances because of its kitchen. The menu offers a mix of slightly goofy, sounds-odd-but-tastes-great items (the Ballistic Elvis, Reuben the Dog), as well as simpler options like mussels and smoked salmon. And there are lots of choices for fanciers of cold, frosty brews. Our only complaint: that silly spelling of “sammich.” 5510 Virginia, 314-351-4500, ironbarley.com.

Russell’s on Macklind

We call it SoHa’s little secret. There are flatbreads for breakfast; soups, salads, and sandwiches with house-roasted meats for lunch; and double-cut pork chops and hand-cut pastas for dinner. Whatever the time of day, enjoy your meal on the bi-level patio. And when you’re forced to decide between ordering a wedge of New York–style cheesecake or a slab of Russell Ping’s almost-famous gooey butter cake, consider following our lead by taking home a piece of each. 5400 Murdoch, 314-553-9994, russellscafe.com.

The Wolf Public House

It’s a ski lodge. Well, not really, but it definitely feels like that, with lots of wood and a laid-back atmosphere, as well as plenty of room to stretch out. The Wolf has a fair selection of beer, made-to-order food, light plates and sandwiches, and a number of vegetarian choices. Local foods are the focus here—even the soda’s made nearby. Just remember to order at the counter. 15480 Clayton, 636-527-7027, thewolfstl.com.

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BURGERS- THIN TO THICK

From flat-grilled to fat stacks, we’ve got you covered.

Cornerstone Café (6 ounces)

This café defines “family-friendly.” The owner’s kids are likely to ask you to judge a Scrabble word they’re playing at a nearby table while you wait for that incredible cheeseburger. Think of a supersize Steak ‘n Shake burger, with crispy edges. And no, “qudoc” is not a word. 1436 Salisbury, 314-421-8900.

Deaver’s Restaurant & Sports Bar (8 ounces)

Poke that patty. See how it springs back? Burgers have no better texture test, and the one you’re prodding at Deaver’s passes gloriously. This is another old-style burger, with a half pound of beef that’s charbroiled and served on a cloud-light bun. 2109 Charbonier, 314-838-0002, deaversrestaurant.com.

Michael’s Bar &Grill (10 ounces)

The burgers here could be a con-sistent favorite of area pythons, simply because they can get their mouths around the meaty monsters. Even with the “garden” of pickles and lettuce served on the side, the perfectly grilled patty here is intimidating—and delicious. Don’t forget the house-made steak fries. 7101 Manchester, 314-644-2240.

Clancy’s Irish Pub at the Barn at Lucerne  (12 ounces)

Smaller versions are available, but you’re going—of course—for the Wholly Cow: 12 ounces of beef-laden love. The meat is ground on-site and seasoned to accentuate its natural goodness. Buns are grilled and served warm. An inviting outdoor fireplace is the perfect complement. 930 Kehrs Mill, 636-394-2199, clancysatthebarn.com.

SOHA Bar & Grill (25 ounces)

The mac daddy of St. Louis bur-gers, the behemoth, five-patty 25 Ouncer comes with fried goat cheese, five cheeses, pork-belly bacon, and sautéed onions. Order a craft beer to finish it off. 2605 Hampton, 314-802-7877.

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OVER THE RIVER

Where we go in the Metro East

Bigelo’s Bistro

Take a seat at the bar; order the house-made chips with blue-cheese sauce; va-cillate between the King of Clubs sub, a 7-inch pizza, or the Pigggelo sandwich; and let that decision determine your choice of beer from a dozen on tap. Or if it’s mid-week, consider a half-price bottle of wine. Or how about a boozy root-beer float? No one said this was going to be easy. 140 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-655-1471, bigelosbistro.com.

Bossanova Restaurant & Lounge

Part of a still-underrated bar-and-dining district in downtown Alton, Ill., Bossanova is a staple. A solid menu highlights New American favorites, with price points in the midteens. Dishes are complemented by a robust selection of wines, craft beers, and specialty martinis. And a sharp, knowledgeable staff serves it all up. 112 W. Third, Alton, Ill., 618-462-1175, altonbossa.com.

Jacobsmeyer’s Tavern

A true corner pub, Jacobsmeyer’s (a.k.a. Jake’s) has been a decades-long presence in the heart of Granite City, Ill. In the past few years, the kitchen has expanded, allowing for a full menu that includes burgers, fish, sandwiches, and salads. You can enjoy that fare at the bar itself or on the huge back patio. You’ll find live music on many weekend evenings, DJs on others, and TVs turned to the big game. 2401 Edwards, Granite City, Ill., 618-876-8219.

Peel Wood Fired Pizza

A study in stonework and masonry, Peel’s interior has the look of a sharp, new(ish) restaurant. But the pizzas here hit points that are both old-school and new-school. Served on a thin, near-Neapolitan-style crust, Peel’s outstanding pizzas are designed to be eaten on-site, straight from the oven. (Carryout isn’t even an option.) A charming wraparound patio overlooks a creek, and the lively dining room complements a small bar known for its selection of craft beer. 921 S. Arbor Vitae, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-659-8561, peelpizza.com.

The Red Bar & Grill

Gourmet sloppy Joes are just one of the old-school items at this corner-style tavern. Customers gather around a large U-shaped bar to snack on comfort foods of all sorts. The tater tots are a crowd favorite, along with clams, frog legs, and crab cakes—all ideal for washing down with a bottle of beer and a shot on the side. 416 Beltline, Collinsville, Ill., 618-223-8822, theredbarandgrill.com.

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THE PRICE IS RIGHT

Cheap (but good) neighborhood joints

Duchesne Bar & Grill

Good: a half-pound cheeseburger for $3.30. Bad: The bar only takes cash. Good: pool, darts, and shuffleboard leagues. Bad: Buckets of Busch and Miller are served under the same roof, so there are lots of ideological disputes. Good: karaoke three nights a week. Bad: Uh, that karaoke. Good: a dozen peel-and-eat shrimp for $3.80 and succulent chicken kebabs for $2.90 apiece. 1001 S. Duchesne, St. Charles, 636-947-0920, dbandg.com.

KimCheese

How many Korean-Mexican joints can a city support, right? Of all the friendly, fast places, this is the best. You can get tacos stuffed with garlicky, soy sauce–marinated rib-eye; burritos fat with spicy pork; and bowls of rice topped with fried pork chops and fragrant curry. The rib-eye– and kimchi-topped KimCheese burger is great, and the house-made fries are astonishingly good. 13435 Olive, 314-485-1408, kimcheese.net.

The Kitchen Sink

There’s everything but, here. That includes laughably huge servings of étouffée, jambalaya, and other Southern fare—like a stupendous shrimp and grits—at shockingly low prices. Pairing barbecue brisket with a house-made Russian dressing or a BLT with salmon salad are just two examples of delicious, inventive sandwiches at one of the most delightful, affordable eateries in town. 255 Union, 314-454-1551, letseat.at/thekitchensink.

Sassy JAC’s

Neighborhood joints look—and taste—like this in Paradise. The food is fabulous and in-genious: crawfish fritters, a gravy-slathered sandwich, tuna tacos, deviled eggs, a crusty loaf stuffed with blackened grouper that could be the best sandwich in town… If you regularly blast classic rock and pour frosty Buds in your kitchen, it’ll seem like you’re right at home. 1730 S. Eighth, 314-932-1280, sassyjacs.com.

Sugo’s Spaghetteria

One way to get rich is by being thrifty—which is why the well-off hang out at spotslike Sugo’s in Frontenac, where the delightful Italian fare is refreshingly affordable. Delicious bricks of house-made lasagna, savory-sweet Bolognese pasta, and crunchy-crusted Sici-lian pizza are all served in a bright, airy atmosphere. And a don’t-miss wine selection and lovely sidewalk patio add to the appeal.Multiple locations, sugoscucina.com.

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THE USUAL SUSPECTS

St. Louis staples worth visiting again

Great Patios:

• Atomic Cowboy
• Molly's in Soulard
• Olympia Kebob House and Taverna
• The Royale

Classic Pubs:

• Dressel’s Pub
• The Dubliner
• McGurk’s Irish Pub
• The Scottish Arms

Known for Burgers:

• Carl’s Drive In
• Mulligan’s Grill
• O’Connell’s Pub
• PJ’s Tavern
• Sportsman’s Park
• The Village Bar

Oldies But Goodies:

• Crown Candy Kitchen
• Farotto’s
• Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria
• Grassi’s Ristorante & Deli
• Krueger’s Bar & Grill
• Pat’s Bar & Grill
• Smitty’s Food & Drink

Live Music:

• Blueberry Hill
• Blues City Deli
• Cicero’s
• Helen Fitzgerald’s

Multiple Locations

• Llywelyn’s
• Mike Duffy’s Pub & Grill
• Schlafly Tap Room and BottleWorks
• Tucker’s PLace
• Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House