Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
His mantra is a simple one: Chef René Cruz cooks things that makes him smile. Following suit, the logo at his new restaurant is a grinning buddha, and after a chat with Cruz or a bite of the “Porkapocalypse” banh mi sandwich, you’ll likely be grinning, too. Lucky Buddha opened at 3701 S. Jefferson in February.
You were one of the early practitioners of molecular gastronomy in St. Louis. Was that just a fad?
It was certainly unique, it was needed here, and it was well-received. It helped St. Louis break out of the norm. It wasn’t a fad so much as a scientific extension of everyday cooking—there’s science involved in cooking an egg perfectly. And a lot more when you begin to break out the components and start tinkering with them.
What led you to a concept like Lucky Buddha? How did you arrive at “Asian-inspired comfort food”?
Growing up, I ate a lot ofAsian food. It was what made me happy. And that became my credo: If it made me smile, it probably would make others smile. And I found it did.
What’s your favorite thing on the menu?
The Porkapocalypse banh mi. We start with a huge piece of bread and use four different types of pork, totaling 8 ounces. Other banh mis give you two. We load them up.
Do bigger sandwiches make you smile?
If the customer’s going to pay more, I want them to see why. One look at that sandwich, and it’s obvious. Pick it up, and it feels like a bargain.
That French-style banh mi loaf is so simple and perfect. Where do you get them?
They can be hard to find, and there’s no good substitute. Asian stores carry them. A&M Bakery produces a good amount, too.
Early on, you changed the name from Hungry Buddha to Lucky Buddha and solicited suggestions via Facebook. What were some of the other suggestions?
The Famished Buddha. Buddha Bowl. Happy Buddha. Buddalicious. Buddha Call. I liked The Flying Buddha. We ended up choosing Lucky Buddha since a lucky Buddha is a real thing. You rub Buddha’s belly, and he dispenses good luck. It was a simple and marketable image.
How did the choice of a sky-blue wall color come about?
We wanted something tranquil and inviting, so no jarring reds or oranges. A color that would make the anime art that’s on the walls pop. Matthew Task designed the logo, did the painting, and created the anime. It’s bold and striking.
Let’s talk about the bold and striking food. You once said, “I take one flavor and enhance it.” Is that still accurate?
It’s the mantra of most chefs, really. How can we intensify or enrich the flavor of an onion, for example? Through technique. Cook it sous-vide maybe or in a little brown butter in a hot pan. A chef’s challenge is to somehow extract as much flavor as humanly possible. You can take a demi-glace and intensify it by introducing dark cherries. That kind of thing.
What’s been an unexpected hit on the menu?
We took the basic seafood rangoon and introduced lemongrass, kaffir lime, and fish sauce—Tom Yum flavorings—and served them with a mango/sweet chili sauce and called them Tom Yum Goons. Using real crabmeat and lobster doesn’t hurt either. These rangoons stand out… You taste all the components. I’m proud of that.
Every restaurant has a secret weapon, a certain calling card. What’s yours?
My line cooks. It’s critical to have a hardcore team that thinks exactly the way you do.
Your back patio is pretty unusual, too.
It’s like a mini-amphitheater, so it’s the perfect place for bands and live music. I think it feels like going to a park. All we’ve done is added a bartender.
You’re especially proud of your ramen. What makes it special?
I build on the classic flavor of katsuobushi [dried, fermented, and smoked bonito] and add 15 different elements, like tare [reduced mirin, brown sugar, and dark soy] and a spicy sesame oil. Proper ramen broth takes a long time to make. Many places cut corners.
What’s the most popular dish on the menu?
The Thai chicken wings. We brine them for 24 hours using all the elements of taste: sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. I caught one woman sucking a wing bone. She said, “I normally don’t do this, and I don’t know why I’m doing this now.” I told her it’s the flavor, and it runs that deep.
Lucky Buddha’s bar program is in lock step with the theme.
Keyan Still, who’s one of the best in the business, created Asian-inspired cocktails, and Naomi Roquet set up the bar with sakes, Japanese Scotches, and Asian beers. Hey, we even carry Lucky Buddha.
The Asian theme carries over to the dessert menu as well.
Our sorbets have the components of an Italian ice—fruit, fruit juice, lemon, and sugar—but we add Asian flavorings like lychee and Dragon fruit. It’ll be like the best Icee you’ve ever had.
