French bistro 808 Maison opens January 2 in Soulard
Former Franco executive chef Jon Dreja will spearhead the cozy 50-seater.
Earlier this year, we were asked, "Why aren’t there more French restaurants in a city founded by the French?"
Beginning Wednesday, there will be another option: 808 Maison.
Appropriately situated in Soulard, the French restaurant will be located at 808 Geyer, in the historic French Empire building that once housed Norton’s, where next-door Molly's expanded years ago.
“I’ve been involved in the neighborhood for a long time and constantly hear people lamenting that there’s no 'nice' restaurant in Soulard since Franco closed,” says Luke Reynolds, who co-owns both 808 and Molly's alongside John Rogers.
Fittingly, soft-spoken chef Jon Dreja, best known for his time at Franco (in addition to stints at Eleven Eleven Mississippi and Vin De Set), will helm the kitchen. While Dreja’s menu is rooted in classic French technique, his use of classic ingredients (such as butter and cream) is restrained, offering a fresh take on presentations.
Escargots is served in shell with chorizo and caramelized fennel, madeira, and saffron-garlic butter. Melted Camembert, smoked sweetbreads with wild mushroom-foie gras duxelle and duchess potato, a tarte flambée, and a foie gras du jour are among the small-plate options.
Photo courtesy of Rick Gould
Fruit de mer include oysters on the half shell, shrimp, clams, and smoked petite octopus, sold by the piece. There will also be a scallops tartare with trout caviar (pictured above), trout caviar by its lonesome, and a grand plateau of 30-plus pieces for $70.
Dreja's French onion soup is made using veal stock. The celery root soup contains black truffle and a quail egg. Two salads on the introductory menu—a warm boudin noir salad and a beet butternut chevre terrene—should also create a stir.
Side dishes include roasted root vegetables (pictured below) and cauliflower-Brie purée with pistachios.
Photo courtesy of Rick Gould
Several entrées are presented with proper French names (poussin, bourride, panisse, loup de mer) and are worth a pre-visit Google search, while others (cassoulet, mussels and frites) need no introduction. Entrée prices, in the $20s and $30s, are capped by $40 worth of unctuousness: a grilled ribeye with pommes frites, smoked bone marrow bearnaise, and bacon-braised brussels sprouts.
Photo courtesy of Rick Gould
Loup de Mer (a.k..a. branzino), stuffed with scallop-fennel mousse and leek blanquette, with trout caviar and saffron oil
Rebecca Ward will dispense classic cocktails from behind the handsome bar, which Reynolds sourced from a single piece of mahogany salvaged from Lafayette Square restaurant/bar The Edge years ago.
Photo courtesy of Rick Gould
Christopher Mendel, who toggled between St. Louis and France for the past several years, will oversee the front of the house. The romantically lit 48-seat space is separated by a 150-year-old brick wall, adding to the intimacy and charm. Embossed wallpaper, richly colored booths, and the brick exterior conjure a classic New Orleans hideaway, a vibe that feels equally at home in the historic St. Louis neighborhood.
With the historic atmosphere and Franco’s former chef, 808 promises the return of a fine French maison in Soulard. Vive la France!
Photo courtesy of Rick Gould
Kevin A. Roberts
808 Maison
808 Geyer, St Louis, Missouri 63104
Restaurant: Wed - Sat: 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Sunday brunch buffet: 10 :00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. Bar: Wed - Thur: 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.; Fri - Sat: 5:00 p.m. - 1:30 a.m.
Moderate
