First Bite: Fleur de Lilies

One of the more unusual spaces in the city now has a concept to match. The two-level restaurant that most locals remember as Sage has been transformed into Fleur de Lilies, whose logo—a fusion of the fleur-de-lis and an Asian lily—intimates the Creole and Korean heritage of its two owners. Downstairs, blond wood and Mardi Gras colors lighten and brighten a previous palette of greens. The meandering tree-shrouded patio is perfect for indulging in a worthy étouffée. Or try the Waygu Bulgogi Burger, finished with kimchi and gochujang (arguably Korea’s tastiest condiment). Upstairs, an empyreal blue invigorates the tall gabled walls of the overflow dining and private event space, a room that leads to what co-owners Misha K. Sampson and Alexis “Lina” Kim simply call “the rooftop,” a hidden terrace punctuated with charming wooden booths. It’s just the place for canoodling over a French 75, fawning over one of two dozen sushi rolls, or lusting after a bowl of Great Aunt Maebell’s Gumbo (and we must thank dear Auntie for her heavy hand with the proteins). Five years ago, the word “fusion” had devolved into something unsavory and unspoken, but with Fleur de Lilies—which is dreaming up such dishes as Fried Banana Spring Rolls—we might be willing to forget all that ever happened. 1031 Lynch, 314-761-3797.