Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
It’s comforting when cherished institutions reappear with the same cast of characters, such classics as Roseanne, Will & Grace, and, on a local level, restaurants like the legendary Del Pietro’s, which closed in 2011 after a 35-year run. In the wake of a successful tribute dinner to founders Michael Sr. and Mary Rose last March that sold out so quickly, a second night was added, son Michael Jr.—owner of eight other local eateries—decided to re-create the family restaurant and chose the former Riverbend/Harvest space in Richmond Heights.
Operable windows in the bar (wisely relocated to the street-facing room) serve as a beacon, indicating that the party has already begun. One reason to celebrate is the reemergence of such classic family dishes as spaghetti alla Angela (named after Michael’s sister) and the lightly breaded bistecca Modiga. Save some applause for a freshly made tagliatelle with roasted cauliflower and pancetta, the frontrunner of Del Pietro’s new-school entrées.
Native St. Louisan or not, there’s even reason to salute toasted ravioli, now made in house with “a lot of love…and veal.” Part of Michael’s so-called “new-old” concept is the everyday affordability (pastas priced $9–$18, entrées in the teens) and having his mom on hand whenever possible, armed with her trademark smile and a plate of her famed Italian cookies as she works the 75-seat room. Don’t ask us which is sweeter.
