A former firehouse becomes St. Louis’ first cidery

Name: A former firehouse becomes St. Louis’ first cidery
Item: Brick River Cider Co.
Author: George Mahe

A look inside Brick River Cider Co. in Downtown West

by George Mahe

March 15, 2018

10:52 AM

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

A few months before Brick River Cider Co. opened, owner Russ John and brewmaster Evan Hiatt hand-delivered cans of several hard ciders to local retail outlets, whetting the collective whistle for the city’s first cider-themed restaurant.

John restored a magnificent redbrick, pink granite, and sandstone firehouse in Downtown West to the appearance of the building’s halcyon days, exposing overlaid windows and expanses of glossy cream-colored wall tile. When it was built, in 1892, Engine House No. 32 was the largest firehouse west of the Mississippi. Today, its bunkhouse can hold more than 100 people and another 50 fit downstairs, where a bar overlooks the ciderworks.

Four varieties are brewed—from the introductory Homestead to the sophisticated and hoppy Brewer’s Choice—all from fresh-pressed local fruit. Above is a dark-stained wooden ceiling. (Look closely to see where body-sized circular pieces of infill have replaced the fire poles.) On the walls are historic photos of the building with period fire engines.

The menu, fortunately, avoids any kitschy firehouse verbiage and plays instead to the classic country cuisine of England and France (where 75 percent of the world’s hard cider is made), such as a Peasant Pie, a proper pork Normandy (pork shoulder, cider-braised apples, Swiss chard) and a French onion chicken sandwich on brioche. The addition of American pub classics (a burger, cider-glazed wings, and a full complement of other beverages) cast Brick River’s net a little wider so all patrons will agree that (with apologies to John Irving) the cider house rules.