Yellowbelly makes a big splash in the Central West End

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN A. ROBERTS

Besides the literal fish reference, sea- and rum-focused Yellowbelly is apt to elicit many pelagic metaphors. As anticipated, the sister restaurant to Retreat Gastropub has customers anxiously anticipating their first bites of celeb chef/consultant Richard Blais’ splashy, colorful menu.

Such dish names as Hawaiian Macar-Uni Salad and Chicken of the Sea-Sar Salad are obvious aquatic tie-ins. A magical “yolk” made of mango breathes new life into avocado toast, and Crispy Sea Creatures evokes the mysteries of the deep. But the obvious showstopper is a shareable never seen before on these shores: the Bone-in Tuna Chop. A 2-pound ahi tuna steak affixed to a tomahawk rib bone, it’s as unusual of a play on surf  and turf as you’ll ever see. Less obvious are the can’t-eat-just-one deviled-crab fritters, arancini-sized globes chockablock with lump crab, served with passionfruit mustard. They’re a popular snack at Yellowbelly’s nerve center, a 16-seat bar with shelves that partially (and cleverly) conceal the kitchen.

The open/not open theme is repeated with grids of tubular steel in the dining room, where colorful murals and glossy seafoam-colored subway tiles drive home the breezy island theme. Co-owner Tim Wiggins’ bar is appropriately stocked with around 60 bottles of quality rums, “a purposeful number” and the basis for a roster of umbrella-free “New School Cocktails” that show depth and style. No need to fish for compliments here, folks.