Chiang Mai now open in Webster Groves

The owner of the Northern Thai restaurant is Su Hill, the sister of Ann Bognar, owner of Nippon Tei, Ramen Tei, and Tei Too, which previously occupied the space.

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The popular Asian restaurant Tei Too, located in the Old Orchard neighborhood of Webster Groves, recently changed hands. The previous owner, Ann Bognar, mother and business partner of James Beard Award–nominated Nick Bognar of indo, kept the restaurant in the family by selling it to her sister, Su Hill, who reopened it as Chiang Mai.

Hill lived in Northern Thailand until she moved to the United States for university and comes from a long line of esteemed women chefs. Her grandmother, a noblewoman, and her mother were both part of the royal household of the Kingdom of Siam and trained there to cook. Hill continued in that legacy and learned to cook from both of them. She currently owns the popular Thai restaurant Bistro Saffron in Cape Girardeau and now brings Chiang Mai to St. Louis, where she and a group of three other aunties prepare all of the food.

While Tei Too offered a wide variety of popular dishes originating from all over Asia, Chiang Mai is loyal to its name and focuses solely on about 20 traditional dishes of Northern Thailand. Utilizing many of her mother’s recipes and utilizing fresh ingredients, Hill is making dishes with multiple layers of flavor and a splendid fragrance.

The menu is split into two sections: small plates and shared plates. Both sections include dishes that would be considered mains and starters for a Western menu. In Thailand, however, serving one person a plate of minced pork Larb and another a large portion of grilled pork sausages would be strange. Dishes are meant to be shared, which is the best way to approach Chiang Mai because it allows you to maximize the number and variety of dishes.

Some dishes will be familiar to patrons who have enjoyed Thai cuisine. Spicy pork Larb Khua, Som Tum, and Sai Qua, the sublime grilled pork sausages meant to be eaten with sticky rice and bites of fresh herbs, are all on the menu and remarkably delicious. The green papaya salad is possibly the best in St. Louis, and the heat level is customizable to suit customer’s tastes.

There are also dishes not commonly found in local Thai restaurants, such as Pad Naam (pictured above); Paloa Eggs and Tofu, a favorite dish for breakfast and lunch in Thailand; and Nam Ngiaw, a vermicelli noodle and sweet green coconut curry dish with pork ribs. Consider eating the Nam Ngiaw with crushed Kab Moo (deep fried pork rinds) sprinkled on top.

Many dishes that are popular in Thailand but originated in other countries are also represented on the menu. Gaeng Hung Lay, a dish with roots in Myanmar, is a rich plate of pork belly and ribs served with a complex herb and spice laden sauce. Khao Moo Daeng originated from China but is a classic Thai lunch offering of sliced barbecue pork that's tinted with a glorious red hue with sliced egg and herbs served over rice.

The Khao Munn Gai (pictured above), chicken served with rice that's infused with savory broth and served with a soybean sauce, is a specialty of the city of Chiang Mai. The successful preparation of what might seem to be the most modest dish on a menu—comprised of very few components—often reflects considerable skill in the kitchen. Chiang Mai’s Khao Munn Gai is fantastic. The chicken has an almost silky texture and a richness and savory depth that can only be achieved cooking it on the bone. The rice, which looks like typical benign white rice, is imbued with intense poultry flavor.

When you go to Chiang Mai, order more than you think you should. You'll be glad that you did.

Chiang Mai

8158 Big Bend, St Louis, Missouri 63119

314-961-8889

Visit Website

Tue - Sat: 11 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Moderate

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