SLM contributor Byron Kerman weighs in regularly on local food events, happenings, and dining news of note. Look for his wit, wisdom, and whimsy every other week both here and in SLM's e-newsletter, On the Burner.
Ice Cream on Fire
They’re just killing it over at Ices Plain and Fancy. Even in the dead of winter, the “Nitro Ice Cream” parlor is bustling with devotees. The Campfire S’more has chewy roasted marshmallows in marshmallow ice cream, bits of chocolate and graham crackers, house-made hot fudge, and a puff of campfire-style hickory smoke trapped under the dome of the container lid. It’s too cool for school. “Sump Pump,” made with Sump Coffee, might be the “coffee-est” of any coffee ice cream you’ve tried. Ice-cream cocktails like “Mrs. Marshall’s Old-Fashioned” knock you back and soothe you at the same time. But the foodie’s choice has to be the wasabi-white chocolate ice cream. The horseradish heat and velvety ice cream do battle in every bite; it’s addictive. And of course, everyone loves the show behind the counter, when the liquid nitrogen vaporizes and thick smoke pours everywhere. Look for “Sticky Charlie” Nitro Ice Cream for dogs, with sales to benefit Stray Rescue, debuting later this month.
Stews & Brews News
Stoke your furnace at Stews & Brews, a new menu offering at the restaurants at Hyatt Regency St. Louis at The Arch. Through February 28, the Brewhouse Sports Bar and RED Kitchen|Bar are featuring three new stews paired with three local microbrews. The stews, ladled out in double portions, include Hearty Beef & Vegetable Stew, Cajun Seafood Gumbo and Sweet & Spicy Asian Pork Stew (at right). The beers are Crown Valley Big Bison Ale, Ferguson Irish Red, and Schlafly ESB.
Lovey-Dovey
Executive Chef Ivy Magruder of Panorama at the Saint Louis Art Museum has fun plans for an aphrodisiac-themed prix fixe menu for couples on Friday, Feb. 13. (That’s the night before Valentine’s Day, fellas). We’re talking arugula salad with basil-honey vinaigrette, roasted asparagus with avocado, rum- and coffee-marinated filet, artichoke-tarragon risotto, butter-poached lobster and double-chocolate brownie tart with raspberries and vanilla ice cream. Reservations are recommended, at 314-655-5490, for the three-course menu with optional wine pairings.