Botanica opens this Saturday in Wildwood

Name: Botanica opens this Saturday in Wildwood
Item: Botanica
Author: George Mahe

Renowned chef Ben Welch’s innovative New Italian menu is influenced by Southern American cuisine.

by George Mahe

September 30, 2021

2:30 PM

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

As the familiar adage says, “Go big or go home.” An award-winning chef and a noted brew pub owner took that to heart at Botanica (2490 Taylor), a 13,000-square-foot restaurant that opens October 2 in the Wildwood Town Center in Wildwood.

Botanica will take the former space of Llywelyn’s Pub and the short-lived Sllyce Republic Pizza, from the same owners. The name Botanica was chosen to evoke nature and greenery, which is present throughout the restaurant and outdoor space.

The Chef

Courtesy Six Mile Bridge

In August, when Six Mile Bridge Beer announced that Ben Welch (formerly of Big Baby Q and The Midwestern Meat & Drink) would become its executive chef, both beer and Ben enthusiasts rejoiced. A week later, when the Maryland Heights–based brewery announced that Welch would also spearhead Botanica, the high-power hire made more sense.

While at Big Baby Q, Food & Wine Magazine lauded Welch’s barbecue as the Best BBQ in Missouri. At The Midwestern, Welch became known for his double cheeseburgers, buttermilk biscuits, and chicken fried chicken (among other things), all of which will be featured on the menus at Botanica.

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

The Food

Courtesy Botanica

In a twist, Botanica’s menu is a mix of classic Italian fare with American—and Southern American—influences. (Welch is an alum of Emeril Lagasse’s acclaimed Nola in New Orleans.) Botanica’s fare is being described as “Nuovo Italian,” which is certainly an apt moniker.

Botanica’s menu is sectioned into four categories: Small Plates, Pastas, Pizzas, and Entrées. The aforementioned biscuits are served with a pimiento cheese containing speck. That double cheeseburger is topped with fontina cheese, tomato agro dolce, and fry sauce. Zeppole get taken on a savory spin by stuffing them with crabmeat and chives. (See what Welch is doing here?)

1 of 4

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

House made squid ink linguine with shrimp

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Fried catfish with eggplant parmesan

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Crab-stuffed zeppole

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Courtesy Botanica

Gnocchi

The theme continues with made-in-house pastas. Squid ink linguine sees shrimp, bechamel, and Cajun spice. Tagliatelle comes with lamb ragu, ‘nduja, gremolata, and cured egg yolk. Gnocchi with artichokes and cauliflower is served in a lemon/garlic/cream sauce topped with frico crumbs (made from lacy, one-ingredient Italian cheese crackers).

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Margherita Pizza - tomato sauce, stracciatella, mozzarella, basil, EVOO

Entrées include short ribs with salt and pepper grits and another crossover dish, fried catfish with eggplant Parmesan, served with a Cajun-spiced tartar sauce.

“The menu is a reflection of my experiences and influences,” Welch says in a release. “I found a lot of crossover between the comfort-driven focus of Italian and American Southern cuisine. I had fun bringing my perspective to classic dishes like the Roman-style pizza, with less common ingredients like speck and candied pecans.”

Welch’s pizza crust is the product of 48 hours of cold fermentation. “It’s New York–style pizza meets Neapolitan,” Welch says in a release. “I am particularly excited about this portion of the menu. The pizza is tender and chewy yet audibly crisp, with a delicate bottom and a yeasty, tangy, complex flavor. Our owner Ryan Sherring and I spent months perfecting this recipe.”

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Negroni Flip - Plymouth Gin, Tribuno Sweet Vermouth, 1220 Flora Aperitivo, Simple Syrup, Whole Egg

The Drinks

The beverage program, spearheaded by Chris Figueroa, former general manager at Salt + Smoke, offers a selection of 13 cocktails in three categories: Old and Familiar (Pisco Sour, Botanica Gin Fizz), New and Original (Clinton Street, made with Charles Nelson Green Brier Whiskey, walnut simple syrup, cherry bitters), and Zero Proof (Strawberry NO-jito).

There are also 13 draft beers, all from Six Mile Bridge Brewery, including popular and rotating seasonal styles. A selection of a dozen glass and bottled wine is available as well.

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Moss-colored walls and cubbies full of plants add a congenial, homey touch.

The Atmosphere

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Infusions and fermentations are practical conversation starters.

Besides the massive number of square feet, Botanica claims several other impressive stats. Seating for 300 guests includes 130 in the main dining area; 130 on the sprawling, dog-friendly patio; and 16 seats at the 40 foot-long concrete bar. The interior is light and bright, courtesy of long wall of windows. Two private event areas seat 65 and 35 people, respectively, with the latter having its own gated patio and green space.

Sherring says Botanica is an extension of what he created at Six Mile Bridge in Maryland Heights: “I have always wanted to build memorable hospitality experiences in some of the area’s residential neighborhoods. For both places, it’s about bringing people together. It’s at the heart of what we do.”