Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream opens tomorrow in bigger, brighter space in Maplewood

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Since its inception, Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream has become one of the city’s food-based biggest success stories.  

Courtesy Boardwalk Waffles

It began in 2017, when a former Jersey boy opened a 650-square-foot, 12-foot wide shop in Maplewood and began selling ice cream and waffle sandwiches. That’s the entirety of the concept: The base product consists of two wedges of warm, cooked-to-order Belgian-style, liege waffle with a large scoop of locally made ice cream smooshed in the middle and a dusting of powdered sugar, similar to the ones found “down the shore” on the New Jersey boardwalks. Half and whole waffles are also available, as are Wachos (pieces of cut-up waffle topped with ice cream). Ice cream and waffles are also available separately, but “they’re not nearly as much fun,” says Moore.

Boardwalk Waffles was a side hustle for Moore that turned into a full-time business. And did it ever. Part of the success stems from sheer simplicity: a freshly made, profitable, custom-made treat that’s ready in two minutes and requires minimal labor to produce. The batter is made in small batches, so there’s zero spoilage. Moore says his market is “pretty much everybody”: parents and kids, teenagers, couples on dates, sweets seekers… Just try to resist succumbing to the aroma as you walk past the shop.

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Another part of the success stems from the increase in catering private events. Last year, “party and catering sales went through the roof,” Moore says, as he spent heavily to expand and promote the business. He began to advertise on phone apps. He signed leases in South County for two future stores. He enlisted Eldon, Missouri-based The Ice Cream Factory to supply the ice cream, including several flavors infused with CBD oil, the first local ice cream shop to do so. He leased six (six!) metro-area billboards. And a few months ago, Moore rolled out his first food truck, a former municipal shuttle bus, to better service community-based and the increasingly popular neighborhood pop-up events. 

But his most ambitious move was moving the flagship store 100 yards west, to the corner of Manchester and Sutton, into a space that's quadruple the size of the original. It’s a bold move—in many ways. 

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

The marquee signage facing both streets can’t be missed. There’s a stage inside the doorway to showcase live music and events, an avant garde touch for a sweets shop, but that’s the idea, says Moore, who wants to “create a vibe, not just an ice cream stop.”

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Inside are nods to New Jersey: a rough-hewn wood-plank floor reminiscent of a boardwalk, a trio of colorful surfboards, an alcove with license plates (“like you’d see on the New Jersey turnpike”), pinball and video games, even a tribute to The Boss—and eventual seating for 40, some of it being in old-school, enameled porch rockers.

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

The Jazz Troubadours kick off the festivities when the shop opens at noon Saturday, performing from noon–3 p.m. Nick Stergos takes the stage from 7:30–10:30 p.m. Jazz, funk, or swing music will be featured on weekend nights. During the week, Moore plans to use the stage to maintain the lively vibe that he’s trying to create with music on weekends; there might be karaoke, trivia, or an open mic night.

A chandelier with amber bulbs seems to flicker to the beat. Möbius strip–style LED ribbon lights illuminating the counter conjure electrifued clouds. Below are 16 flavors of ice cream in one freezer case (including favorites Gooey Butter Cake and Cookie Monster), and four CBD-infused flavors in another.

Three commercial-grade waffle bakers are dedicated to in-store use, another three service pickup orders, :and more in the back for catering jobs,” says Moore. “They’re Boardwalk’s lifeblood. I have 25 of them.”

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Courtesy Boardwalk Waffles

The waffle batter is made with real eggs and butter, both of which are stored in a glass case in full view of the counter customer. To start, two flavors will be available, classic and chocolate. A third flavor (for instance, strawberry, blueberry, or pistachio, among others) will rotate every 10 days. The same flavors will be used in Boardwalk’s waffle cones and bowls. Various add-ons (such as dips and nuts) will be introduced over time.

The new location allows Moore to introduce both milkshakes and alcohol to the mix. As soon as the liquor license is approved, look for adult shakes and even cocktails, which should be a hit at a Sunday “waffle brunch,” where savory waffles—such as cornbread jalapeño with bourbon syrup—will be showcased in order to keep Boardwalk “a notch above everyplace else,” according to Moore. Breakfast-themed ice creams, such as Magic Charms and Cinnamon Bun, are already on the menu; others, like maple bacon, and scone, are being developed.

Over the years, Boardwalk Waffles has defied the odds, growing its business—during a restaurant recession and now a pandemic—at a time when other concepts are struggling. The bullish Moore says his long-term plan is “to have fun, stay aggressive, and keep my foot on the gas.”

He’s not kidding. Later next week, the moment after the new shop gets its footing, Moore plans to start construction on the first South County location.

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Photo by George Mahe