Ben Poremba to open The Benevolent King on April 7
The restaurateur returns to the kitchen at his Moroccan-inspired restaurant in Maplewood.
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Salad of grilled zucchini with hearts of palm and oil cured olives
Ben Poremba makes his return to the kitchen.
The restaurateur—who's behind acclaimed eateries Elaia, Olio, Parigi, Nixta, and La Patisserie Chouquette—will once again helm a kitchen day to day at his newest, Moroccan-inspired concept, The Benevolent King. The 28-seater will open softly (with a limited menu and walk-ins only) this Saturday, April 7, at 7268 Manchester in Maplewood. Reservations and a full menu will be available beginning next Thursday, April 12.
With a small space and menu, Poremba says, "It's like cooking at home."
Although he tastes dishes and brings ideas to the table at his other restaurants, Poremba says he's not often involved in the daily operations of menu development. "I thought it was a good time for me to do that," he says. "I had this concept in mind and thought, Why not?"
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
The Benevolent King's namesake derives from Mohammed V of Morocco, who served as the country's sultan in the early 20th century. To this day, he's praised for standing up to the Vichy French and Nazi governments to protect the Jewish community during WWII.
Poremba's mother is also Moroccan and consulted on the menu. The chef's using his mom's recipes as "building blocks," from her sauces to vinaigrettes to condiments. "I'm building contemporary food around them," he says. "The foundation is her and her flavor."
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Vegetarian couscous with braised cabbage, stewed tomatoes, oven-roasted tomatoes, and garlic confit
The menu, which will change daily, debuts with a selection of bar snacks. Poremba says his favorite is a charcuterie-like plate with shaved veal tongue that's cooked, chilled, shaved thinly, and topped with such garnishes as gherkins and candied raisins.
For entrées, Poremba says to expect a sweetbread dish that's slow-cooked and served with chickpeas, black garlic, and wilted gem lettuce. "It's fresh and crunchy, but you get these traditional flavors underneath," he says.
There's also a dish (pictured below) with fresh figs, apples, and a goat cheese mousse spiked with a fermented green mango condiment, called amba, that's popular in the Middle East. "It's like a spicy kimchi made with mango instead of cabbage," Poremba says.
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Goat cheese mousse with fresh figs, apples, fermented green mango, and elder flower
The menu will also feature a Tunisian open-faced sandwich or tartine with avocado, poached tuna, hard-boiled egg, and cured olives.
For dessert, expect a rosewater custard topped with raspberry syrup, coconut, and candied peanuts.
"To me, this is what Moroccan food is about," Poremba says of the menu. "It's a really subtle combination of flavors, textures, and colors."
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Shrimp Mogador: lightly breaded and fried shrimp with chermoula sauce
Bar manager Tony Saputo performs a "one-man show" behind the bar to complement the food. Saputo's resumé includes stints at Eclipse Restaurant inside the Moonrise Hotel, Layla in The Grove, and Atomic Cowboy. Poremba says he wanted a solid, creative, seasoned bartender to helm the drink menu.
Commander of the Faithful and Sacred/Not Sacred
Expect 18 cocktail options, including the Commander of the Faithful, made with Nuestra Soledad Mezcal, Cynar, Alessio Chinato Rosso, Curacao, and Sage Aquafaba; and the Sacred/Not Sacred, with Rittenhouse Rye, Angostura 5 year Rum, El Dorado 8 year Rum, Santa Maria al Monte, Ramazzotti, and Tiki Bitters. Or try the titular The Benevolent, made with Sipsmith gin, house dry vermouth, and orange bitters, served extra cold.
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
As for the decor, the dark walls are accented with mirrors and a mix of Chiavari chairs and French bistro–style chairs with a black-and-white pattern. The restaurant is nestled in the former Water Street space, near Acero and Kakao Chocolate.
"I’ve wanted to do a restaurant in Maplewood for a long time," Poremba says. "It’s a thriving community. It’s very small-business-friendly. I love the fact there’s a lot of mom-and-pop shops on the street."
The Benevolent King will be open for dinner service Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m.–close.
The Benevolent King
7268 Manchester, St Louis, Missouri 63143
Tue - Thu: 5 p.m. - 11 p.m.; Fri - Sat: 5 p.m. - 1 a.m.
Moderate
