Would an unconventional or chef-driven restaurant concept work in a food court? —Dave L., St. Louis
It’s a valid question, because, hey, foodies shop in malls, too. The food court restaurant is a different animal, though, and rents in malls are well above average, which plays into my answer.
The questioner observes that “complaints are common regarding the bland sameness of mall food court offerings” and wondered what would happen if a canny entrepreneur were to take a chance on something new and different. Would a dumpling joint, a Singapore-style noodle shop, or a distinctly regional ramen shop succeed?
My answer: Not likely.
Food court restaurants, of course, tend to be familiar, fast, franchised, grab-and-go establishments, such as Chick-fil-A, Chipotle, and Panda Express. Food court rents are high, competition keeps menu prices low, and the host mall can levy common area maintenance charges, charge marketing fees, or even take a percentage of sales. Translation: The operator must crank out some real numbers to turn any kind of profit. When discussing food court stalls, the old “volume cures all ills” axiom gets tossed out the window. It's no secret that food court restaurants are a tough place to earn a buck.
It's even tougher if the concept is unfamiliar or unexpected, like the aforementioned ramen shop. Having mainstream, mass appeal must be a prerequisite, so a local success story (such as Pi Pizzeria or Sugarfire Smoke House) or an offshoot (like ‘ZZA or Hi-Pointe Drive-In) might survive.
But realistically, more shoppers will likely gravitate toward Subway than a mall outpost of the new local burger shop—no matter how good the food.
As Crushed Red co-owner Chris LaRocca points out, trips to the mall are in a slow decline, “prompting a reinvention of the mall experience, which in turn will affect the food courts.”
Sugarfire’s Charlie Downs sees a solution: “If a mall owner wants to lessen the operator's risk by investing in a hot local chef or an avant-garde concept, that'd be great."
If you have a question for George, email him at gmahe@stlmag.com.
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