Which condiment shaker should have the most holes: salt or pepper? —Sally M., Mill Valley, CA
For decades, this discussion has been the subject of many impassioned mealtime debates, along the lines of “Coke or Pepsi?”, “Should chili contain beans?,” or "Mozz or Provel on a pizza?"
In this case, both camps can present a logical (rather than merely preferential) argument.
Salt has been part of the proverbial dinner table for millennia. Salt was one of the world's main trading commodities. Wars were fought over it. Books have been written about it. Its ability as a flavor enhancer was universally recognized. Salt was even used as currency. Over the years, countries, culture, medical theories, and health all factored into the shaker debate.
Fifty years ago, when high schoolers attended football camps for 10 days in mid-August, they were given salt tablets to replenish what was lost during the workouts, similar to those who worked outdoors in the extreme heat. This led to one theory on the shaker-holes argument: Salt was necessary to sustain human life; therefore, people tended to use more of it—hence, it went in the shaker with the most holes.
In the past few decades, however, in this country especially, that tide has turned: Excessive salt was deemed unhealthy, so it was relegated to the shaker with the fewest holes.
One argument says, “There are more holes for pepper, because pepper is a longer word than salt.” Another says that since people are more sparing with pepper (recipes and personal tastes generally call for more salt than pepper), it should go in the shaker with fewer holes.
Because over-salting food can be problematic, fewer holes can be helpful. Or because salt pours more quickly than pepper, fewer holes makes sense.
Others say it's not the number of holes that makes a difference but the size that matters. Since salt crystals are larger (and tend to clump in humid conditions), their holes should be bigger. (After having shaken the dickens out of many a pepper shaker to yield only a dusting of product, however, I contend that it makes sense to put pepper in the shaker with the largest holes, so it flows at an acceptable rate.)
Many avoid the argument entirely by using glass or clear plastic shakers with an equal number of holes.
When people realized the flavor of ground pepper dissipates considerably over time, pepper mills came into vogue, first as an add-on by servers in fancy restaurants. Pepper mills are now standard issue on many restaurant tables, but the fate of salt is still being decided.
Traditional salt shakers are still common on restaurant tables, but salt mills (filled with sea salt) are seen occasionally, as are salt cellars/salt “pigs” (from “pigge,” the old English word for earthenware), with tiny spoons for sprinkling purposes.
Since pepper mills look out of place without a mate and salt cellars/pigs require a deft touch, I contend that the most logical solution is using a matched set of mills that control the flow and the grind. Fans of salt and pepper mills (like me) find themselves constantly changing the size of the grind of both condiments, thereby controlling the complexion of a dish.
Follow George on Twitter @stlmag_dining or send him an email at gmahe@stlmag.com. For more from St. Louis Magazine, subscribe or follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
