What are your favorite under-the-radar places for St. Louis-style pizza? —Spencer P., St. Louis
The questioner assumes that I enjoy St. Louis-style pizza, which I do. But not all of its iterations. Moderation is a factor for me, especially in the Provel cheese department. Before half of you stop reading and/or gag, please allow me to explain.
First, let's define the genre: By most definitions, St. Louis-style pizza is characterized by a thin, yeastless crust, a sauce that's thicker and sweeter than most, a heavy hand with toppings, and Provel cheese. (Whether 100 percent Provel cheese is used and whether the pizza dough is made by hand or machine are debatable points.)
St. Louis-style pizza can found at hundreds of restaurants and bars in town, and we all have our favorites. Here are a handful, both hidden gems and under-the-radar aspects of more well-known pizzerias:
Anthonino's Taverna: The menu at this Greek-Italian hybrid is so deep, it's possible to have never tried the 14-inch pizza with a hand-tossed crust. Choose from 18 specialty pies (or build your own) topped with 100 percent whole milk mozzarella. (If you want to experiment, Anthonino's has a dizzying array of cheese options—seven to be exact, including Provel, provolone, feta, gorgonzola, ricotta, cheddar, and hot pepper.
Billy G's: When the difference between a medium and large pizza is only $2, ya gotta go big. Hand-tossed rectangular pies (some topped with mozzarella, others with Provel) are all served on sheet pans atop pizza stands. Paired with a beer and a ballgame on Billy G's killer patio, the St. Louis pizza experience gets no better.
Bommarito's Pizza: Still relatively unknown after a decade, Roberto Bommarito's restaurant crafts some of the best mozzarella-topped, thin crust pizzas in town. (Provel cheese is also available). The joint isn’t fancy or big (there are six tables and a hidden patio out back), but the pizzas (available in four sizes) and arancini alone are worth the trip.
Bono's Pizzeria: Tony Bono, Jr. makes pizza crust in several different styles, but we defer to the thin crust. Go with the Bono's Special (topped with a mozzarella-and-Provel blended cheese) and the signature house salad (topped with Provel).
Farotto's: OK, there's no way this legendary 61-year-old pizzeria is under radar, but the new patio (the one with the slick louvered roof, one of two in St. Louis) might be. In our unscientific opinion, Farotto's has the thinnest crust in the city—almost lahvosh-thin.
Guido's Pizzeria & Tapas: The pizza dough is made at nearby Vitale's Bakery, the toppings are incredibly generous, and both mozzarella and Provel (or a blend) are available.
Imo's Pizza: After decades of serving a round pie cut in squares, "the square beyond compare" is now available in a square shape. Provel is the signature cheese here, of course, but many St. Louisans don't realize that mozzarella is also available, as well as a 50/50 blend—a factor powerful enough to turn former naysayers into Imo's devotees.
Follow George on Twitter @stlmag_dining or send him an email at gmahe@stlmag.com. For more from St. Louis Magazine, subscribe or follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
