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Does it bother a restaurant owner if a customer orders an appetizer for dinner in lieu of a main course? —Rachel S., St. Louis
After everything that restaurateurs have endured for nearly two years, the short answer is no. While they all hope for sky-high check averages, most will admit that they're just happy to still be in business.
That said, they also realize that patrons are eating smaller portions. Multiple tastes and textures are part of today’s dining experience. Guests now share a tableful of appetizers, some opt for a soup or salad, and then go on to split an entrée and dessert. A lot of today's meals are cobbled from what I call the "left-hand side of the menu."
Despite the changing dining habits, server upsells haven't gone away, and even if guests are eating smaller portions, servers may lean on the alcohol component to boost their sales.
We asked a few local chefs and owners to opine on the matter:
Gerard Craft, Niche Restaurant Group: "It does not. Order what makes you feel good. That's what we're here for."
Rich and Teri LoRusso, LoRusso's Cantina: "We are happy to see our customers at any time. Four nights a week, we offer a generous happy hour in the lounge, when prices for appetizers and drinks are reduced. People might say that cuts into the bottom line, but it's still a profitable sale and a valuable enticement. It brings people in the door."
Ed Neill, Café Provencal: "It's never really been an issue. It happens occasionally, but I've never heard a waiter complain. They realize that a customer is in the house and will return if taken care of properly."
Anthony Devoti, J. Devoti's Trattoria & Grocery: "In a nutshell, it doesn’t bother me. People order the small plates and love them."
Jim Fiala, The Crossing and Acero: "I. Don't. Care. The reason being that you never know people's motivations for eating whatever they're eating. Maybe they're not that hungry, eat an appetizer, fall in love with the place, and come back for the Grand Tasting Menu. This is not New York, where the attitude is 'that seat is worth $500 tonight, and we have to get there.' I'm a big-picture guy, and it's my job to convince the servers of that, too, if they start getting a little sharky."
Matt McGuire, Louie: "It honestly never bothers me, just as long as they’re here eating. And what gets ordered by everyone each night always has a way of sorting itself out."
Brant Baldanza, OG Hospitality Group: "It doesn’t bother me at all since I do it at my own restaurants all the time. At The Tavern, my go-to is a cup of French onion soup followed by our sushi roll or pork birria tacos. At the Corner [Pub & Grill], it's a side salad with some wings. Our servers don’t mind those orders at all. They're happy when guests come in to see us, low check or high check. They appreciate the business."
Follow dining editor George Mahe on Twitter and Instagram, or send him an "Ask George" email at gmahe@stlmag.com. For more from St. Louis Magazine, subscribe or follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
