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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
George Mahe
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Kate Munsch
A two-word description of this 2-top at Three Flags Tavern? We'll go with "rustic elegance."
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Kate Munsch
Some restaurants boast large prints or a mural on the main wall. Three Flags has intriguing map, one with local significance.
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Kate Munsch
Cane back and cushioned barstools, a nice touch.
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Ask George: What is your favorite restaurant in town? Ollie U, St. Louis
I answered this question almost exactly a year ago and I will answer it again today—but differently. Last year, my response was Pastaria, and while I still frequent the place—regularly—I have a new favorite--Three Flags Tavern--a restaurant that, in my opinion, encapsulates all of the things a local restaurant should be, do, and have.
A great name – St. Louisans love their city and its history, so a restaurant name steeped in city history is a good place to start. In March of 1804, flags of three different countries flew over St. Louis in a two-day period, marking the transfer of part of the Louisiana Territory (later known as in the Louisiana Purchase), a watershed event and a major component of our city’s frontier history.
A sensible concept – For continuity’s sake, owner/chef John O’Brien (SLM's Q&A here) let the flags dictate his cuisine, so you’ll see dishes with French, Spanish, and American influences. O’Brien’s wisest move, in my opinion, is presenting them simply--without any pretense or fussiness--the way most locals prefer their weeknight meals. Think approachable food (fried chicken, steak Diane, brisket hamburgers) done better, much better…food to eat, not to fawn over.
An appropriate atmosphere – Old brick, exposed ductwork, and tin ceilings have been done before but O’Brien ties it all together with an old map of the Northwest Territory along one wall, bookended by portraits of the dignitaries—the Lacledes, Chouteaus, et al--who negotiated the land transfer. The dreaded banquette seats that face the wall? Here, they face that map. Problem solved.
A capable staff – Here, I’ll yield the floor to Ian Froeb, the P-D’s dining critic, who began his recent review of Three Flags thusly:
“For the first hour or so, our server at Three Flags Tavern handled our table with aplomb. She described that evening’s special, a whole pan-roasted branzino, so evocatively that I ordered it. She nailed a red-wine pairing for a duck dish. She deftly maneuvered plates and glasses out of my 9-month-old daughter’s relentless reach. Then she dropped the bombshell: This was her first day on the job.”
Froeb also mentioned that Three Flags was “a strong contender for the year's best new restaurant.”
SLM’s Dave Lowry, in a review to be published in October 2014, opened his review with:
“Yeah, there are cool St. Louis restaurants. But are there restaurants so cool the waitresses tie their own bow ties? Yes, there are. Is.”
I won’t divulge Mr. Lowry’s summation, but it’s similar to that of Mr. Froeb.
Next time I tackle this question, the answer will no doubt be different. But if the restaurant is similar to Three Flags, I’d wager my cohorts would all be fine with that, too.
Three Flags Tavern
4940 Southwest
Southwest Garden
314-669-9222
Tues - Sat: Lunch: 11:30 am - 2:00 pm; Limited menu: 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm; Dinner: 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm
