Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
The average American eats 29 pounds of French fries each year. Through a mix of procrastination and gluttony (for both fried food and punishment), I ended up eating what seemed like 29 pounds of fries in a single afternoon while researching this article. I came away with greasy fingers and a new appreciation for restaurants that put a creative twist on this most ubiquitous, but often overlooked, side dish.
EXCELLENT
1. Café Provencal
A heaping haystack of impossibly thin pommes frites comes in a large serving bowl, accompanied by a bouillon cup of lemony aioli—a bargain at just $3. 427 S. Kirkwood, 314-822-5440, cafeprovencal.com.
2. Baileys’ Range
Classic fries go from good by themselves—crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, and plenty salty—to even better with any of the 14 condiment options. We like the sriracha ketchup and the Rooster mayo. 920 Olive, 314-241-8121, baileysrange.com.
3. Scape
Take just about anything, fry it in truffle oil, then cover it in Parmesan, and you’ve got something delicious. These Parmesan-truffle fries are no exception. 48 Maryland Plaza, 314-361-7227, scapestl.com.
ELEVATED
4. Fieldhouse
Best ordered when one is dining with the whole family, or the whole football team, these dense polenta fries are the size of French toast sticks. Topped with a tasty tomato-caper relish, they’re served adrift on a sea of marinara. 510 N. Theresa, 314-289-0311, fieldhousestl.com.
5. The Shaved Duck
What’s better than fries with meat and cheese? Smothered fries with two kinds of meat (pulled rib and pulled pork) and two kinds of cheese (a creamy sauce and freshly grated sharp
Cheddar). 2900 Virginia, 314-776-1407, theshavedduck.com.
EXCEPTIONAL
6. Mission Taco Joint
These carne asada fries are the best in town, and that’s not just the margaritas talking. Chile-crusted papas fritas are topped with flank steak, Chihuahua cheese, guacamole, crema, pico de gallo, and grilled flank steak. Order them as an appetizer, as your whole meal, or as a satisfying late-night bar snack. Multiple locations, missiontacostl.com.
