Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
I grew up in a northern climate, just across Lake Erie from Canada. While most of my Midwestern friends lament the coming of winter, I grow sentimental at the sight of bare trees, relish the challenge of driving on icy roads, and wield a snow shovel the way John Henry carried his hammer. Occasionally, someone will ask me how I cope so well with the cold. My secret is simple: soup. I prescribe one bowl a day, taken around noon. Here are four worthy options.
Poblano Chicken Chowder
Canyon Cafe, Plaza Frontenac, 1707 S. Lindbergh, 314-872-3443, canyoncafe.com
A perennial award winner at Manor Grove’s annual Soup’s On! competition, this chowder shows culinary chops that you might not expect from a restaurant at the mall. The heat of the peppers is balanced perfectly by the cream, and the chunks of chicken are generous. It isn’t low in fat, but it’s high in flavor.
Eat With: A free chip basket includes sweet-potato crisps. A white-chocolate tamale is complimentary.
Khao Soi
Fork & Stix, 549 Rosedale, 314-863-5572, forknstix.com
A specialty of Thailand’s Chiang Mai province, this dish might be our favorite chicken noodle soup in town. Fresh noodles float in a curry-and-coconut broth, accented with shallot and pickled mustard greens. A garnish of crispy fried noodles makes this dish as beautiful as it is piquant.
Eat With: A caddy on your table offers three ways to amp up the soup with chili spice.
Manhattan Clam Chowder
DeMun Oyster Bar, 740 DeMun, 314-725-0322, demunoysterbar.com
Unlike its creamy New England cousin, Manhattan clam chowder has a tomato base. DeMun’s version is a touch salty, but we can’t argue with the amount of clam meat, served still clinging to the shells.
Hoppin’ John Soup
Straub’s, multiple locations, 314-725-2121, straubs.com
What do you get when you cross bean soup with gumbo? Hoppin’ John Soup, which pairs black-eyed peas and ham with rice and andouille. Throw in thyme, garlic, and cayenne pepper for spice—plus carrots, celery, and onions to ease the conscience—and you’ve got a hearty meal.
Eat With: Get two Hawaiian rolls for less than a buck.
