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Bars and pubs seem to come and go, but taverns for some reason strike us as different.
Taverns were often the cornerstones of a community, gathering places that embodied the city's spirit and its personality. Many--like The Green Dragon (Boston), The Black Pearl and The White Horse Tavern (Newport, RI), and Fraunces Tavern (New York City)--became legendary, or landmarks, or both. Locally, the Fox & Hounds Tavern at The Cheshire (recently "renovated" to look exactly as it did 50 years ago) could be granted similar status.
As taverns were known houses of hyperbole, it was fitting that they carried a proper name, and one with a long story attached. And so it is with Three Flags Tavern, coming in November to 4940 Southwest Ave. (the former Harry's Bar & Grill) in the Southwest Garden neighborhood.
And it's a St. Louis story, too.
The three flags above--representing the U.S., Spain, and France--are visual mnemonics for Three Flags Day, the commemoration of a historic three-way land swap: Spain turned over the Louisiana Territory to France, which immediately granted it to the U.S. in what became known as the Louisiana Purchase, an event that allowed Lewis and Clark to begin their westward exploration. All of this took place in St. Louis on March 9 and 10, 1804.
In the whirlwind switcheroo, the Spanish flag was lowered on March 9, the French flag was raised for a day, and the following day the U.S. flag replaced the French. The transfer later became known as the "Three Flag Ceremony."
This bit of local lore was dredged up by the Tavern's owner, John O'Brien (right), a chef with a resumé as long as the Constitution of India, one that includes stops at Balaban's, Redel's, The Ritz Carlton, and King Louie's among others. His most recent stint was Exec Chef at Table Three in Wildwood.
Originally conceived by O'Brien and his wife Cathy as "Forty Seats and a Bar," Three Flags' tidy menu is geared to the small kitchen that accompanies the space. Many of the dishes were inspired by the rich cultural history of the city--like lobster beignets, brandade, and jambalaya--while others tap the Spanish influence of Three Flags Day, items like Manchego Frito and Tacos de Carnitas. The American heartland is represented, too--think fried chicken, apple pie, and croquettes of pork trotter with green peppercorn apricot chutney.
One may criticize such a menu as being too broad-based, but consider The Libertine in Clayton and prasino in St. Chuck, two recently-opened restaurants that have successfully deployed similar across-the-board style menus. O'Brien will also utilize a "cycle" menu, with different salads, soups, sandwiches, and proteins available on specific days of the week.
It'll be scratch cooking in Three Flags' kitchen, which translates to house made fries, lobster rolls, and hamburger buns. The burger meat, by the way, will be ground daily from beef brisket and chuck.
The wine program is based on what O'Brien calls "American sensibility:" a limited selection of American wines across a wide selection of varietals. Beers will follow suit, utilizing local craft brewers and bottlers while the bar promises classic drink recipes, fresh juices, and proper glassware.
When asked about the ambiance, O'Brien's answer was "uncluttered and without TV's in every corner."
Three Flags has the underpinnings of the quintessential neighborhood joint, a dining niche we all relate to. We'll stake our claim on that.
