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The Mud House belies its modest name. Amid the antique shops of Cherokee Street, it, too, shows attention to the past. But the feeling is strictly 21st Century, the clean lines and modern colors showing off the decor of new-but-retro art and old advertising memorabilia. The atmosphere could easily be in today's Brooklyn.
Coffee and free Wi-Fi lead one to think this might be just another hipster pit, but not so; it's far better than that. The atmosphere is unself-consciously pleasant, indeed, downright humorous at some points, and customers range widely in age. (Indeed, in species; a charming English mastiff held court on the back patio one day.)
Yes, the coffee, even the non-specialty cuppa, is good. But it's the food that brings lots of folks back for breakfast and lunch, both served until closing.
For those who prefer not to be challenged for a while after they wake, there are some standard breakfast offerings, bacon/egg/potatoes American-style and a breakfast sandwich. But it's more fun to go beyond that, and while we were tempted by the French toast with house-made syrup, a breakfast burrito ended up on our plate, pairing vegetarian black bean chili with eggs, cheese and tomato (below left). Nice and spicy, quite satisfying, and the optional bacon, crisp and very smoky, just set things off perfectly. And an amazing lack of drip, for those who fret about such.
Baked goods in general seem to be a serious focus. The do-not-miss is the gingerbread (above right), dark with molasses and showing the little fibers that mean there's fresh ginger giving its zip. The edges next to the loaf pan become chewy, not because it's over-baked but because the batter has caramelized from the heat. It's hard not to order this everytime it's in the case.
Lunching offers plenty of vegetarian options, particularly a chickpea salad with bits of cucumber and red onion. The menu talks about cilantro, but ours wore sprigs of watercress whose slight crunch and slightly peppery bite were a fine addition. Just when the mouth started to think that the mixture needed salt, another flavor burst came forth and zapped the idea. Toasted brioche works nicely as a base. The hummus wrap (below left) is another well-seasoned option, a little zip along with the lettuce and tomato.
And then there's our friend, the pig. Shreds of pork that's been slowly, slowly cooked in its own juices are re-warmed on a grill as a loose patty. Lots of crisp ends, lots of porky flavor, and a fruit relish arrive on a toasty bun (above right), a killer sandwich whose richness is offset by the house's usual side dish, a handful of baby greens lightly dressed in a vinaigrette. There's a goat cheese sandwich that looks alluring, but it'll be hard not to order this again.
Be aware: they close at 5:30 during the week, 6 on Saturday and Sunday. But we can certainly see whiling away a mid-afternoon hour here.
The Mud House 2101 Cherokee Benton Park 314-776-6599 themudhousestl.com
Photos by Kevin A. Roberts
