The Missouri History Museum restaurant reopened a few months back under a new name, Bixby's, and new management, Butler's Pantry. The room, on the second floor, has floor-to-ceiling windows, and we don't know a more glorious view of Forest Park, especially as the leaves change or the redbuds bloom. The redecoration, in sophisticated tones, steps things up a notch, too.
Brunch at Bixby's has a different, slightly disconcerting twist on an excellent idea. The menu card notes, “a la carte,” and while it displays various beverages and their prices, the unpriced food items—eggs Benedict, omelets, a Belgian waffle and bread pudding—actually are included in the overall cost. They are ordered from a server and brought from the kitchen. That eliminates standing in line, carrying plates,
The salad table had the usual greens and pasta salad, but there also was a very tasty mushroom salad with orzo pasta, and some first-rate fresh fruit. In fact, Bixby's obviously has excellent produce suppliers; this late in the season, scoring such good tomatoes for the impressive tomato-mozzarella platter earns points. Even the watermelon, tossed gently with feta cheese and mint, retained most of its flavor.
Chafing dishes displayed beef tenderloin, a few slices still showing pink, perfectly tender. Boneless chicken breasts were lightly glazed with citrus sauce and came alongside spaghetti squash, a nice change in vegetables. Good bacon and some first-rate link sausage from home-town G&W also await. No lids meant nothing was overcooked, but the serving temperature tended toward the tepid.
Omelets were perfect, tender inside and with a light browning outside, but it was the traditional Benedict that stunned. Clearly made to order, the muffin was fresh, the egg idyllically poached, and the Hollandaise – oh, the Hollandaise! Very lemony, slightly foamy from being whipped, properly buttery. If there's a better Benedict in town, please inform us now.
The carbohydrate table displays biscuits and gravy, croissants (and local black raspberry jam), cookies, scones, mini-desserts of a trifle/shortcake with tart cherries and slightly thickened juice, some small Danish, crisp and fresh. The moist, tender bread pudding from the menu seemed to include poppy seed muffins, and arrived warm. The thick, almost chewy sauce reminded us of what sometimes tops sticky toffee pudding, rich and delicious without overwhelming.
The biggest glitch was service. On a quiet day, we craned our necks for coffee refills, and had to ask for cream. A careless pour made sparkling wine fizz to overflowing; the spillage never was wiped from the bare tabletop and the flute was left one-third filled. Water was poured into an empty flute, another water glass was not filled until the meal was nearly finished, and it was specifically requested. And for folks who say that our experience is different because we are recognized: We were clearly known from the moment we arrived; in fact, several management company executives were brunching.
Is the brunch worth the price? It's a lovely room for entertaining, with comfortable chairs and room between the tables. The eggs Benedict were brilliant, the bacon and sausage and produce were high-quality, and the desserts were above average. But there's room for improvement. We've enjoyed excellent lunches, and perhaps the service was an anomaly. We won't cross Bixby's off our list.
Bixby's
Missouri History Museum
Lindell at DeBaliviere Boulevards
314-361-7313
Lunch Mon.-Sat., Brunch Sun.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Brunch: Adults $21.75; children 4-10, $11.95
By Joe and Ann Pollack
