Photography by Ashley Gieseking
Hearty Hill fare from Lorenzo’s Trattoria: sliced pork flat-iron steak with Marsala sauce, truffle tomato bread pudding, and green beans
Fire Pizza
Anthonino’s Taverna
It may look like just another bar and grill, but Anthonino’s Taverna puts out some really tasty food from several spots around the Mediterranean Sea. Chiliheads should head directly for the Fire pizza, which mixes pepper jack cheese and jalapeños with capicola and cooling tzatziki. 2225 Macklind, 314-773-4455, anthoninos.com.
Spaghetticon Salsa di Melanzane
Cunetto House of Pasta
Cunetto is known for its large portions and food that draws folks willing to wait a long while for tables. Of the myriad pasta options on the menu, we head straight for the spaghetti con salsa di melanzane, a dish featuring savory tomato sauce with chunks of creamy eggplant. 5453 Magnolia, 314-781-1135, cunetto.com.
Pasta Milanese
Gian-Tony’s Ristorante
The pasta Milanese at Gian-Tony’s is given an old Sicilian treatment, with sardines, fennel, raisins, and pine seeds. It sounds strange, but it works. (You can blame the Moors for the origins of the dish.) 5356 Daggett, 314-772-4893, gian-tonys.com.
Penne Borghese
Charlie Gitto’s
A cognac-laced pink (read: cream and tomato) sauce cradles bits of prosciutto. The whole richly flavored thing looks blushingly romantic, just the ticket for date night. Multiple locations, 314-772-8898, charliegittos.com.
Guido’s Deluxe Pizza
Guido’s Pizzeria & Tapas
The prize on the menu here is the pizza. It’s a first-rate example of St. Louis–style pie. The crust is properly crisp; the tomato sauce is sweet but tangy; the toppings are generous; and the cheese can be Provel, mozzarella, or a combination of the two—the last being our preference. 5046 Shaw, 314-771-4900, guidosstl.com.
Pork Flat-Iron Steak
Lorenzo’s Trattoria
Yes, Lorenzo’s does have great gnocchi. But it’s the pork flat-iron steak that draws gasps and moans from us. Chef and owner Larry Fuse Jr. knocks it out of the park with this one. 1933 Edwards, 314-773-2223, lorenzostrattoria.com.
Ziticon Vodka
LoRusso’s Cucina
There are lots of updated takes on traditional favorites here, but we’ve got a soft spot for the ziti con vodka, which won the house Pasta Bowl contest the year the Rams won the Super Bowl. Italian sausage is used judiciously, so the dish is both spicy and creamy. 3121 Watson, 314-647-6222, lorussos.com.
Calamari Piccate
Zia’s On the Hill
The spicy sauce that comes with the calamari isn’t what you might expect. Nope, the lightly breaded, tender aperitivo is served in a sauce that’s similar to what’s found on Buffalo wings. And as is typical at Zia’s, you receive a generous serving. 5256 Wilson, 314-776-0020, zias.com.
