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BBQ aficionados (the term "snobs" also works well here) across the country might be surprised at the news. Not us.
We admit that we felt dissed when our beloved St. Louis was completely passed by on The Daily Meal's Ultimate BBQ Road Trip last year, and even penned a quick missive, alerting TDM that they missed one hell of a stop. Did they listen? We'll never know. Regardless, it is wth some pride that today we report The Daily Meal has awarded a ranked list of the "Top 20 Ribs in America" and St. Louis garnered three mentions: Pappy's Smokehouse (#8), Roper's Ribs (#18), and Bogart's Smokehouse (#19). The list included ribs from Los Angeles to New York City; fittingly perhaps (Texas Monthly recently hired its first BBQ Editor, a position that exists nowhere else in the U.S.), Texas BBQ joints earned six mentions.
Pappys' and Bogarts' ribs are the same spec, come from the same source, and are tended by the same pitmaster, Skip Steele. The only difference is a minor tweak in spicing and the finish. At Bogart's, Steele uses a roofer's blowtorch (above) to caramelize a final apricot glaze.
Many folks become acquainted with Pappy's ribs by standing in line at the now legendary Midtown joint, where owner Mike Emerson frequently walks the queue, armed with rib samples (below left). It's a brilliant idea, really, the perfect specimens acting as an icebreaker, Emerson's handshake, a palate teaser...and a highly-effective example of upselling. At Bogart's, Skip Steele doles out not ribs, but smoked wings, an item not on the menu but only offered to those waitng in his line...for those apricot-laquered ribs.
Although SLM recognized Roper's Ribs in The Best BBQ in St. Louis cover story in June 2012, we daresay that despite their awards (a list "longer than a slab of spares," as we say in the article), they are a lesser known establishment, despite the fact that they've been around since 1976. Roper's (Denise Roper is above right) is a traditional and more typical St. Louis BBQ joint, offering up tips, snoots, and whole smoked chickens, as well as a rib slathered with that tell-tale, sweet-smoky, St. Louis-style sauce.
At $20-plus per slab, BBQ ribs are considered a pricey treat for many, but pitmasters know that the raw material cost is high on this particular item, and the selling price for a slab and 2 sides should in fact be closer to the $30 mark. What we're saying is that baby back BBQ ribs are a relative deal, if that makes you feel any better heading into Memorial Day weekend, the official kickoff of BBQ season in St. Louis.
