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It's a storefront. And it's a little tricky to locate. Persevere; SoCo's gyros are worth it.
Understand that this is the simplest of lunch spots, its only frippery a painted mural on one wall. Order at the cash register, pick up your silverware and one or two of the paper towels that serve as napkins. (Not to sneer; sturdier and larger than most paper napkins, it actually makes sense.) SoCo's Gyros Deli and Catering Co. serves lunch only, closing at 4:30 p.m.
Now, to be a thing of beauty, a gyro needs to be fresh. A little extra time for the meat on the rotisserie may mean a little more crispness, and that's preferable, so the meat should be sliced when ordered, never ahead of time. The pita must, absolutely must, be soft and warm and chewy. It goes without saying that the lettuce and onions should be crisp, of course, and pallid tomatoes can be excused if the tzatziki sauce, that yogurt/cucumber/garlic sauce, is cool and fragrant. SoCo's gyros meet this standard. Whether it's the Standard, the Deluxe with feta cheese (below left), or the options with hummus or grilled onions and peppers, they're outstanding, not to say generously portioned.
Rather astoundingly, the chicken gyro also excels. Chicken, so easy to overcook, is usually a poor substitute for the beef-lamb mixture of the gyro. Some people (cough, cough), yes, some people avoid chicken sandwiches like the plague because of the strong potential for dryness. But the Stuffed Chicken gyro (above right), which adds spinach, artichokes and red pepper to the house's usual gyro toppings, is remarkable, one of those dishes that adds to the confusion of difficult choices on return visits.
And there are wraps, in flour tortillas, like the Frisco, more chicken, with bacon and Monterey jack cheese plus lettuce and tomato, grilled to melt the cheese, the effect being almost a grilled club sandwich. Tasty, but not as good as the gyros.
Alongside come several good options, all of which happen to be vegetarian-friendly. Hearty enough to serve as a main course is the Greek tortellini pasta salad (below left). Ricotta-filled pasta are tossed in an oregano-laced vinaigrette along with kalamata olives, onions, cucumbers, feta, and a little more sweet red pepper. The pasta's not mushy, the flavors play well, and it's an overall hit. That same dressing is used on the other salads, including the Village, with tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, pepperoncinis and feta.
Special kudos to the red pepper hummus (above right). That's red pepper as in sweet peppers, not spicy, and the intangible notes they add to the chickpea dip are a pleasure. A good dollop of tahini in the recipe gives that faint, almost peanut-buttery flavor. Pita wedges with it are toasted and arrive still warm.
Alongside the cash register, a glass case of Greek pastry murmurs to the hungry. Succumbing once in a while to such blandishments isn't difficult. Kataifi (left), which look like small rolls of shredded wheat, are actually nut-filled pastries, the thin shreds being filo dough. The traditional pour-over of syrup moves things from crisp to chewy almost immediately, but that's okay; the texture is a nice change from baklava, which can sometimes be a little too tooth-resistant.
No liquor license here; beverages are limited to cans or bottles of water, tea and soft drinks from a cooler. Unjaded service at the counter is pleasant, all food is prepared to order, and they do a busy carry-out business, so be prepared for a little wait.
You'll find it in a little wedge on the north side of Lindbergh just west of Tesson Ferry, between a dry cleaner and a skateboarding shop. Tailslide on in.
Photos by Kevin A. Roberts
SoCo's Gyros Deli and Catering Co. 5520 S. Lindbergh 314-843-7600 Lunch Mon-Sat NO WEBSITE
