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Chef John O’Brien had long dreamed of opening a restaurant consisting of “40 Seats and a Bar” -- and naming it just that. At the former Harry’s Bar and Grill, he and his wife Cathy found it--plus one hell of a tree-covered patio to boot..
Three Flags Tavern is now open at 4940 Southwest in the Southwest Garden neighborhood.
The O’Brien’s first restaurant is quintessential St. Louis, incorporating all the requisite elements a restaurant in our city should have. It’s like the O'Brien's assembled a giant check list and started crossing off the “must haves.”
The Right Name:
The name honors the commemoration of the historic three-way land swap held in St. Louis in March 1804. Three different flags—first the Spanish, then the French, then the Stars and Stripes—flew over the city in a two-day period, marking the transfer of part of the Louisiana Territory, in what became known as the Louisiana Purchase, a watershed event that allowed Lewis and Clark to begin their westward exploration. St. Louisans love stories about their city, so a restaurant name steeped in city history is a wise move indeed.
The Right Food:
Chef O’Brien’s prospective menu for “40 Seats and a Bar” had Spanish, French, and American influences, so as soon as he uncovered the story of the three flags, the culinary focus for Three Flags Tavern was solidified.
The Spanish influence is seen in a first course, Manchego Frito with Romesco sauce (above) and items like posole, made with Berkshire pork shank. Calling out Tacos de Carnitas as Spanish in origin is a stretch, so we’ll keep the theme alive and refer to it as “Spanish-American.”
For the Francophiles: Lobster Beignets and goodies like Gâteau Chocolat with Framboise Crème Anglaise.
The majority of the 25 item "Board of Fare" is American--items like cast-iron-skillet fried chicken, an heirloom pork mixed grill, and house-made rabbit sausage served with black bread and spicy-sweet mustard (below).
The Right Price:
Appetizers average $10; entrees, $15. Repeat, entrees average $15, aka mid-teens, aka sweet spot. If Three Flags performs, it will qualify as one of the the few--precious few--restaurants in St. Louis that are "good...and cheap."
The Right Vibe:
Classic St. Louis with modern touches--old, occasionally gnarly red brick; cinnamon-colored ceilings and exposed ductwork; chandeliers that look old, but aren’t; and classy, cane-backed barstools.
In the dining room, handsome tables and comfy, dark-taupe upholstered seats with nailhead trim.
Tying it all together, a glimpse of our past, a 12’ X 8’ map of a portion of the Northwest Territory--even showing trade routes—flanked on both sides by portraits of the French, Spanish, and American dignitaries responsible for the land transfer.
Look off to the side: remember the 99 bottles of beer on the wall at Harry's? At Three Flags, it's more like 99 bottles of wine.
The Right Philosophy:
O’Brien’s mission statement starts with two words: extreme hospitality. His personal cooking style is excerpted from this SLM Q&A published a few months ago:
“I'm a modern person who leans backwards. I want to do simple things really, really well. I'm not interested in making lobster foam and dehydrated bacon dust. I just want to make good fried chicken and bake some really nice bread. Razzle dazzle has a time and place...but not in a building that dates from 1928. It's been a tavern for a long time.”
And so it is again. Three Flags Tavern opened its doors last night, serving dinner only Tue-Sat.
Photography by Kate Munsch
