One of the rites of Spring for many StL Countians is the opening of the Kirkwood Farmers' Market. Grab-and-go food had always been handled by two out-buildings: on the NW corner, Cafe Manila has built a steady following over its 12 year run and has seen several expansions, while the NE corner has been a fast-moving revolving door.
Last year, it was Carolyn's, A Matter of Taste; for a few years before that, it was Babalu's Snack Shack. (Its owner, Dana Holland, is now knocking 'em dead at Jilly's Cupcakes and Cafe). Before that, the shack was home to Starr BQ, Specialty's, and an outpost of Richard's Ribs.
This year, it's another Richard, Dick Russell, a competitive and award-winning pitmaster, who's stoking the smoker. Russ' Ribs and BBQ Shack is now open for business every Saturday and Sunday (and perhaps an occasional Friday, too).
The menu of grilled and smoked meats is small, but serviceable: dogs, brats, smoked chicken tenders, pulled pork, and ribs.Ah, those ribs.
Russ' ribs are dry-rubbed, then finished with a vinegary, Carolina-style sauce, rendering them less sweet and cloying than other local offerings. It's a tasty --and so far quite popular--iteration. But ribs are is tricky--when he's out, he's out--so plan an early lunch.
Russell told Relish "I live in Kirkwood and I love barbeque... I figured this was just meant to be."
