I had heard about Maggie's Lunchbox in Fenton some time ago, but never paid a visit...and I'd been missing something. Chances are, you have been, too.
Co-owned by Ben and Kari Aschinger and Pattie Bernier, Maggie's is located inside an office building along a rather humdrum section of Horan Rd, a stretch devoid of any other restaurants, a purlieu described by a colleague as "'halfway between "Peripheral" and "Remote."' In its defense, Maggie's sits like a cherry on a cream pie--the only flash of personality along an otherwise forgettable stretch of suburban road.
The cheery sign yields only the basics, and little of the "from-scratch" philosophy that's found inside. Ben is a schooled pastry maker and worked at The Ritz Carlton-Naples and The Adam's Mark - St. Louis, so all the pastries are homemade, from the sticky buns to a perfectly-spiced pumpkin bar. All the breads are made in house as well--five kinds, plus croissants. All the dressings, all the sides--are fresh and homemade. Bernier, another professionally-trained chef, is assisted in the kitchen by Don Kripner, who diner may remember from Harvest, Starr's, Zinnia, Cyrano's, and Cafe Ivanhoe (at 3257 Ivanhoe, also the address of KoKo, Bistro Toi and now, Kevin Willmann's Farmhaus).
Daily specials are assembled and posted a month at a time (mitigating those annoying "Uh, yeah, uh...what's your soup today?" phone calls. Maggie's is the speakeasy of restaurants...there's no website, no after-hours message on the phone, no hours on their sign. Sounds like someone wants to keep it a secret, but I won't let 'em. Go here for the menu and list of specials.
I asked Ben Aschinger if he had plans on doing another place, maybe one a little closer in. His answer: "You never know. Maggie is the name of my oldest child...and I happen to have two more."
Maggie's Lunchbox 867 Horan Rd Fenton, MO 636-326-4411
