Off the Vine
2605 Hampton, St. Louis
Last meal served: November 5, 2008
Why we'll miss it: Because it always surprised and hardly ever disappointed. Braised short ribs cooked in a wine reduction stocked with cloves of garlic? In South City? In a former Dairy Queen hut?
Why (we think) it closed: It's always a risk when you enlist a top-notch chef and don't offer him a piece of the action.
Where to go now: Off the Vine may have lived a short life, but Atlas (5513 Pershing, St. Louis) has been blessed with longevity and wears it well. Same goes for the teeny I Fratellini (7624 Wydown, Clayton).
Blue Water Grill
343 S. Kirkwood, Kirkwood
Final meal served: November 8, 2008
Why we'll miss it: That's kinda like asking why we'd miss the Arch. The local vanguard of so many restaurant trends—small plates, wine flights, FedExing in fresh seafood—it was a culinary landmark that maintained its vitality throughout its 20-year run.
Why (we think) it closed: No need to speculate; as owner Tim Mallett put it in a letter on the restaurant's website, "Our customers have less disposable income to spend on eating out and business has suffered."
Where to go now: Find top-notch seafood at Oceano Bistro (44 N. Brentwood, Clayton) or McCormick & Schmick's (17 West County Center, Des Peres). Or visit another Mallett restaurant that's justifiably still going strong, Remy's Kitchen and Wine Bar (222 S. Bemiston, Clayton).
The Pitted Olive
5815 Hampton, St. Louis
Final meal served: November 29, 2008
Why we'll miss it: A little bit of Tuscany under the Hampton sun, The Pitted Olive revivified the notion of a mere deli with clever vittles that always titillated our taste buds, like the herbed chicken–and–goat cheese sandwich and those tasty garlic-Parmesan frites.
Why (we think) it closed: Sadly, a missive from the proprietor gave a familiar reason: "Due to the failing economy our sales have slowly been declining for many months now." Another theory: that the concept was never fully embraced by the neighborhood.
Where to go now: Find similar gourmet fare at The Market at Busch's Grove (9160 Clayton, Ladue). For similar-quality sandwiches, it's hard to beat Stellina Pasta Café (3342 Watson, St. Louis) or Local Harvest Café (3137 Morgan Ford, St. Louis).
Fu Manchu
7336 Manchester, Maplewood
Final meal served: January 25, 2009
Why we'll miss it: Even though Pan-Asian cuisine is plentiful round these parts, Fu Manchu lent it a goofy-kitschy vibe (the bar was a main focus of attention) not often found among stern sushi chefs. Just try ordering a Buttery Nepal from one of them.
Why (we think) it closed: It was doubtful that chef/ restaurateur Mike Johnson's super-successful streak could last forever. The omnipresent maker of culinary crowd pleasers himself simply said, "It never gained momentum."
Where to go now: Down the street to Boogaloo (7344 Manchester, Maplewood), a still-cooking stalwart in the Johnson empire, where you can likewise gorge on small plates and over-the-top cocktails. To stay in the Asian vein, try Miso on Meramec (16 N. Meramec, Clayton), where newly installed sushi chef Eliott Harris is on a roll.
Bistro Alexander
7927 Forsyth, Clayton
Final meal served: March 25, 2009
Why we'll miss it: Few eateries that call themselves bistros really mean it. Bistro Alexander did, with a short-list menu that boasted pâtés, sweetbreads, duck confit, and beignets.
Why (we think) it closed: Could have been an "identity" issue: casual and chatty in the front room, quiet and sumptuous in the back. Or the occasionally stubborn owner, who for a time thought a website was not necessary.
Where to go now: Franco (1535 S. Eighth, St. Louis) for the city's best sweetbreads and pâtés. Or for that snug bistro feel, snag a table at either Pomme (40 N. Central, Clayton) or its even cozier little sister, Pomme Café (44 N. Central, Clayton).
Revival
3800 Chouteau, St. Louis
Final meal served: May 22, 2009
Why we'll miss it: God, why won't we? In less than a calendar year, this comfort-food Valhalla that settled into the old King Louie's space developed a fierce following thanks to its endearingly eclectic menu. Green Goddess salad, Dr Pepper–seasoned collard greens, chocolate-covered bacon ... We'd go on, but we're getting misty-eyed just thinking about it.
Why (we think) it closed: Especially in a depressed economy, restaurants depend on neighborhood support—and in Revival's case, there wasn't even much of a neighborhood. When you become a destination restaurant and then the major road to that destination closes, survival is difficult to impossible.
Where to go now: Here we draw a blank. Creative, high-quality food at a low price is a rarity anywhere. The best news is that Revival's chef, Cary McDowell, recently took over the restaurant inside Winslow's Home. Can a revival of signature items like his Salt and Pepper Chicken Thighs be far behind?
