Our job is mostly talking about things you can eat or drink or do, and it's rare that we discuss an event that's over and done. But Saturday night, we needed dinner before theater, and decided on Ibby's, the newish fine-dining venue in Washington University's Danforth Center. We chose it because Raghavan Iyer, author of The Turmeric Trail and 660 Curries, was on hand as part of the Diwali holiday festivities He'd overseen some special menus at Ibby's, which is open to the public for dinner, Tuesday-Saturday. Ann has cooked from the latter book, and we've both been happy with the results.
To our delight, we found Iyer-there's no better phrase-hanging out at the restaurant, chatting with the staff and guests, not introducing himself, just modestly asking if the food was satisfactory. And it was way more than satisfactory, with thrilling lamb kebabs in a fenugreek cream sauce, a beautiful, subtle red pepper soup, delicious striped bass topped with an amazing eggplant-garlic pate, pork vindaloo with a multi-flavor sauce, sharp with vinegar. The entire meal showed spicing that was tingly rather than hot, with a variety of tingles that curled around our tongues to deliver waves of flavor.
It turns out that Minneapolis-based Iyer works for Bon Appetit Management Company, which oversees Washington University's food service, and he has trained their chefs and overseen, for example, the installation of tandoori ovens at one of the university's cafes. And then he introduced us to Jim Dodge, the San Francisco-based pastry chef and author, who also works for BAMCO and who's going to do a dessert visit at the university around Valentine's Day.
By the way, students are obviously eating pretty well on the Hilltop: Patrick McElroy (Ruth's Chris Downtown, exec at Jeff Ruby's), is the lead chef at Ibby's, and Gary Suarez (formerly of Cardwell's), helped launch Ibby's and remains in the university's kitchens.
Editor's Note: Ibby's may be the biggest "sleeper" restaurant in the city. Stay tuned to Relish for a full review from the Pollacks.
by Joe and Ann Pollack
