Pan-roasted cod among the fresh fish offerings at Little Fox

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

During the pandemic, Little Fox co-owners Mowgli and Craig Rivard have managed to creatively survive and thrive. First came the buzz about the menu, as well as a cocktail and natural wine program. Then, in October, The New York Times lauded the 60-seat restaurant in Fox Park among 50 favorites across the nation. One of the likely reasons: the fish offerings, such as skate wing atop sweet corn succotash and grilled fairytale eggplant. For the late winter, chef Craig Rivard showcases Atlantic cod loin, chosen for its consistent size and quality. “Cod is a forgiving fish that we knew would travel well as a takeout item,” he says. A bed of local carrot purée anchors a thyme and butter-basted pan-roasted loin. The chef sourced an heirloom variety of locally grown farro that was “minimally processed, texturally superior, and had a nice pop.” The inspiration was what Rivard calls “farrotto,” a.k.a. a risotto made from farro and vegetable stock. Folded into the mix are local roasted rainbow carrots and Brussels sprouts. Atop are frizzled leeks, which Rivard describes as “sweet, crunchy, and oniony”—though the description’s not really necessary, chef. You had us at “frizzled.”