If anyone was wondering why Mike Johnson has been hanging out down in Georgia with Myron Mixon, they now have their answer.
Johnson, the long-time friend, partner, and mentor to Carolyn Downs (see SLM's "Perfect Pairings" here), will open Sugarfire Smokehouse with Downs (both at left) at 9200 Olive, the former site of a Dickey's BBQ.
Over the years, Johnson has owned, operated, or consulted in perhaps a dozen local restaurants. In February, he sold one of them, Boogaloo in Maplewood, to minority partner Tom Powers, whose son Dan recently revamped that menu to more reflect the original one Johnson created. Readers may not know that Johnson is also a minor partner in Cyrano's cafe in Webster Groves (owned by Carolyn Downs and her husband Charlie) and that he penned that menu as well.
Johnson tells Relish he recently spent a week at Jack's Old South Cooking School, conducted by Myron Mixon, arguably the country's most famous BBQ legend. Mixon holds the perennially sold-out BBQ symposium at his home in Unadilla, Georgia. In addition, Johnson's spent months "hanging around other BBQ joints in the country," as he puts it, "trying to get BBQ down to a science."
Johnson seems to be on his way, as Sugarfire has some appealing twists and turns: the meats and vegetables will be locally-sourced, as will the sodas and beers, while the milkshakes will be made using ice cream from Quezel, a local sorbet and ice cream manufacturer owned by the ever-entertaining Ronnie Ryan.
Customers first grab a tray and approach what channels the homeyness of the cafeteria-line from the now-departed Beffa's, where Johnson says that you simply order what you want: "You want a few ribs, half a pound of brisket, a little smoked turkey, maybe some homemade sausage, and a few fresh sides? No problem. I'll weigh it up for you right then and there."
The BBQ-averse will be placated by grass-fed burgers and hand-cut fries. But no one will be averse to Downs' contribution: whole or sliced pies. (Side bet: we'll wager a few other goodies from her award-winning dessert case at Cyrano's may just sneak in there as well.)
Johnson noted that the Smokehouse will also use "every green-friendly device and tactic that I can get my hands on."
The lease was signed yesterday; Johnson is demo'ing the space today. As the retrofit from Dickey's won't be extensive, look for blue smoke to waft up from the corner of Olive and Price in about eight weeks.
