The first time we encountered Cassandra "Cassy" Vires, she wheeled a chair around and began telling two strangers--us--about every item on the new Sunday Brunch menu at Ernesto's, the nifty little wine bar in Benton Park. She had reason to be passionate... she was Ernesto's exec chef. But that was some time ago.
More recently, we've seen Chef Vires in print, on local TV, and most recently, as a finalist for a prestigious James Beard Award in the category of "Cooking, Recipes, and Instruction." (The winner in that category will be announced in NYC on May 6.)
And now yesterday, it was announced that she and husband Josh Renbarger would soon open Home Wine Kitchen at 7322 Manchester in Maplewood, a 40-seat space occupied by Nosh The Neighborhood Bistro since last July.
At Home, Vires will logically travel the "elevated comfort food" route, a safe and comfortable niche to be sure, and one right in her wheelhouse. But what really caught our eye was the wine component of Home Wine Kitchen.
The concept is called "line pricing." It's a straight-line, European approach to wine menu pricing that has never (to my knowledge) been tested in St. Louis.
"The glass wines will all be $8, and bottled wines will all sell for $30," says Renbarger, who has prior experience as both a wine retailer and wholesaler. "It will take the focus off a wine's price as the main decision maker," he added. "If the choice is between three wines in the same category, a table almost always picks the middle-priced wine, as no one wants to appear either too cheap or too assuming. Line pricing takes away all that."
It does a whole lot more as well. It allows for an honest wine recommendation by the staff (one not based on price) and opens the door to customers perhaps experimenting with unfamiliar varietals or wine regions.
Rengarger believes that wine should be comfortable, fun, and a hassle-free experience: "I see wine as a main component of the meal, just like the protein " he noted. "Our approach allows us to change up the glass offerings every week to mirror the weekly menu change, and it lets us focus on complimentary flavor profiles instead of trying to accommodate every wine region and style." Makes sense, because at $8 and $30, a Barolo is just not possible.
Such an exercise may not have been possible here 10 years ago, but with the recent explosion of wines--good wines--at lower wholesale price points, it's entirely possible now. And as Renbarger's expertise lies in sourcing value-priced, Italian and French wines, his initial list of 12 glass pours (6 red, 6 white) and 30 bottles will lean in that direction.
Home Wine Kitchen will not be entirely wine-focused, however. A pared-down selection premium spirits and craft beers will also be available.
Renbarger may later add a small reserve list, if needed, but will not do so immediately, noting "We are confident that our customers will appreciate and embrace this new approach." We'll raise an $8 glass to that.
