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Wine may go back many millennia to the Bronze Age but the wine bottle we know today is only about three centuries old. It was only the development of the cork-closured cylindrical glass bottle--stacked on its side, keeping the cork airtight and wet--that permitted the evolution of age-worthy wines that improve with cellaring.
The “fifth” bottle, originally one-fifth of a gallon now rounded off metrically to 750ml, was said to be a suitable ration for one man with dinner, back in the days when men were men and most wine was low in alcohol. One theory is that this size of bottle was the largest that early glassblowers could produce with one full breath. However, even in those early days and for very special occasions, wineries would put up their product in impressive, oversize bottles.
For reasons lost to history, most of these bottles were given the names of Biblical figures like the evil King Nebuchadnezzar and the long-lived Methuselah. The conventional names varied among the wine regions with the two standards being Champagne and Bordeaux in France. Magnums contain the same volume in both regions, 1.5 liters. Magnums of wine are efficient for larger gatherings, are aesthetically elegant, and impressive to your guests.
Magnums are the perfect size bottle for parties of as little as four and most respectable wine shops and restaurants carry a decent selection. They are inherently festive and tend to keep wine younger and fresher. Magnums of wine age better and slower in this size of bottle and taste consistently better than when matured in normal size bottles.
The proportion of exposed wine to unexposed wine decreases exponentially as the bottle size increases which means that larger bottles (like Magnums) have less exposure to the effects of oxygen, which are beneficial but eventually turn wine into vinegar. Not surprisingly, the aging process of wine in a Magnum takes around 1.5 times longer than in a 750ml bottle, one more reason to seek out a Mag over a traditional 750.
Here are some Magnums from a few places that have a good selection:
2007 Sori Paitin Barbaresco Magnum, Italy Sori Paitin is one of the most respected Barbaresco Estates, dating back to the 18th century. The 2007 Barbaresco Sori Paitin of 100% Nebbiolo has intensity, focus, and is drinking well now. $88 at the Saint Louis Wine Market, 164 Chesterfield Commons, in Chesterfield.
2007 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay Magnum, Santa Cruz Mountain Of all Mount Eden’s Estate-grown wines, the small production Burgundian-style Chardonnay is the most in need of further bottle aging at release, requiring an additional two to four years to fully reveal its character, explaining why it is considered one of California’s longest-lived white wines. $113.99 at The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth, in Clayton.
2007 Nicholson Jones Selection Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum Nicholson Jones is the collaboration of two men who share a common vision to produce outstanding California wines, St. Louisan Cal Nicholson and esteemed Winemaker Julien Fayard. $175 at Café Napoli, 7754 Forsyth, in Clayton.
Sears is sommelier at Sears Wine and Spirits Catalogue and can be reached via email at searscatalogue@gmx.com.
