Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
Nothing is more frustrating than a wine bar or self-proclaimed “wine-centric” establishment mucking up its wine service. From smelly glasses to warm reds, too many places just don’t get it right. You might be thinking, “The wine service at my favorite place is just fine.” Unfortunately, however, the infractions below are all too common. The result: wine that falls short of the way that it’s supposed to be enjoyed.
Wine temperature isn’t a big deal to most people, because that’s the way they’ve always experienced it: red wines from the bar’s back counter, white wines stored in the same cooler as beer and champagne. When wines are served too cold or too warm, they don’t show as well as they should. For my money, I want it right. And just what is the right temperature?
• Champagnes: 43 to 50 degrees
• Light whites and rosés: 45 to 50 degrees
• Heavy whites and light reds: 50 to 55 degrees
• Medium-bodied reds: 55 degrees
• Full-bodied and aged reds: 59 to 64 degrees
These standards might be unrealistic for wines by the glass, but you should demand them for anything ordered by the bottle.
Good glassware is expensive, but it makes all the difference in the world. Cheap pinot grigio tastes better in the right glass, while Château Mouton Rothschild can taste horrible in a thick, rolled-edge glass. The glassware doesn’t have to be Riedel to make the wine taste great; in fact, I would recommend something more affordable that’s thin, with a cut edge on top. Multipurpose glasses are another shortcut: A pinot grigio shouldn’t be served in the same glass as a chardonnay, let alone whites in the same glasses as reds.
Wine service can be a joke at some establishments, with even managers doing it improperly—from cutting the foil incorrectly to dripping all over the place without a single apology. Have you ever looked at the sheer terror on most people’s faces when trying to open a bottle of champagne? Do you have to move your head out of the way, so you don’t get elbowed when someone pours your wine? This is bad service, and it’s not completely the servers’ fault.
The management, wine buyer, sommelier, or owner should take the time to properly show and enforce correct wine service. Even at your favorite little corner bistro, you should get great service; it doesn’t cost more to provide better service, and it’s the easiest thing to fix. When wine is served correctly, it’s a thing of beauty.
