People often ask me, “What’s your favorite winery in Napa?” After visiting many of the vineyards across the region, I have found it impossible to name a favorite. I like them for a variety of reasons. I like Ovid for its amazing views, Palmaz Vineyards for its underground winery, Tor Kenward Family Wines because you can sip vino with the owners, and Harlan Estate because, well, it’s Harlan. (The authors of The Wine Snob’s Dictionary once described it as the “ultimate cult winery.”)
But a trip to Napa Valley shouldn’t be about visiting the best, most exclusive wineries. I’m often disappointed at places like that, where they dole out their best-selling wines with an eyedropper. No, when in wine country, it’s about the experiences. Here are a few pointers to ensure a memorable time:
Plan ahead. I can appreciate spontaneity as much as the next guy, but a great wine trip needs at least a framework of planning. Not every minute needs to be accounted for, but tasting appointments and dining reservations are essential. Most hotels will be happy to do the legwork for you. Find a centrally located area, and create a home base. I prefer Yountville, where you can walk to tasting rooms at the end of the day—or any restaurant in town.
Timing is everything. Avoid going to Napa on a long weekend in the summer, when everyone else goes. Nearly everything—airfare, hotels, tastings—costs more then, and you’ll have to stand in line for coffee at Bouchon and that restaurant where you’d confirmed a reservation weeks earlier. Instead, go during the week if possible. Northern California’s weather is always nice, so spring and fall are great times to visit. And if you think a visit during harvest would be pleasant, think again: Imagine a bunch of strangers showing up while you’re finishing annual reports. As you might expect, many wine-industry workers are incredibly busy during that time of year and don’t have time for a leisurely chat.
Hire a chauffeur. Besides having hundreds of cars and drivers available, some driving services are willing to chauffeur your own rental car for you. And unless you’re training for the Tour de France and look forward to navigating steep mountainsides, do not rent a bike. It might be a great option in Burgundy, France, but not in Napa.
Take your time. All too often, people try to squeeze in too many wineries and pass out before dinner. Instead, start with a good breakfast before visiting one or two wineries. Then, after lunch, take in one or two more. Along the way, remember: water, water, water. With moderation and a couple meals, you’ll not only enjoy your trip, but also remember it.
A former sommelier at The French Laundry, Hoel serves as a senior wine advisor for Soutirage, a Napa Valley wine merchant and advisory firm.
