Ever looked over to another table and noticed they were drinking a weird or funky wine from Africa, Spain, or someplace you thought couldn’t even grow grapes? Chances are, they’re either in the business or they trusted their sommelier to bring them something fun, interesting, and new. There’s a relatively unknown category called “somm” wines, bottles that (unless a sommelier’s around to geek out about them) sit patiently on a wine list while the chardonnays and cabernets are snapped up by folks who don’t know any better—and who often spend three to four times too much for a wine they “know” instead of venturing out and trying something new. If you’d like to avoid identifying too much with that camp, here are three under-the-radar grape varietals—out of more than 4,000 varietals worldwide—that are waiting to be experienced and enjoyed.
Assyrtiko (or Asyrtiko) is mainly grown on the island of Santorini in Greece. Planted in rich, volcanic (read: ashy and sandy) soil, it is able to maintain its acidity, even when the grapes are very ripe. Light, dry, and aromatic, with pear, green apple, and grapefruity flavors, Assyrtiko profiles like a cross between sauvignon blanc and Grüner Veltliner—without demanding a Greek cruise.
Recommended Producers: Boutari (pictured, left), Domaine Sigalas, and Estate Argyros
White Rioja is usually made from Viura, with small additions of Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca. Rioja Blanco, as it’s also called, ranges in style from ultrafresh and vibrant to slightly oxidized and nutty (my favorite is R. López de Heredia). Its ability to keep its crisp acidity, with flavors of lemon, lime, and orchard fruit, is amazing. Since it’s finished with varying degrees of American oak, you’re sure to find one you like.
Recommended Producers: R. López de Heredia, Remelluri, and Artadi (pictured, center)
Grenache (or Garnacha) is traditionally used in the famous blends of the southern Rhône valley and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, yet this versatile varietal can be found in an array of other styles, from a lightly colored rosé to a full-bodied monster red. Classically, grenache fills the palate with notes of strawberry and red cherry; deeper reds exhibit loads of black-pepper spice and smoked meats while maintaining a nice, firm acidity.
Recommended Producers: Château de Beaucastel, Domaine du Pegau (pictured, right), and Roger Sabon
Three “somm” wines from Hoel’s recommended producers: 2007 Boutari Santorini Assyrtiko, $18.99; 2006 Artadi Orobio Rioja Blanco, $13.99; and 2006 Domaine du Pegau, Châteauneuf du Pape, Cuvee Reservee, $59.99. All are available at The Wine & Cheese Place in Clayton.
About Our Expert: Chris Hoel, CSW, is the co-founder of St. Louis Wine Clinic and the former beverage director of Monarch Restaurant. He writes this monthly column from Napa Valley, where he is a sommelier at The French Laundry.
