The phenomenon of the “cult cabernet” first emerged in Napa Valley in the early ’90s, when several ultra-small production cabs hit the market. Bryant Family, Harlan, Screaming Eagle and Colgin (among others) received great press, and for good reason—they are fantastic wines. Unfortunately, after a wine gets big scores, its price goes through the roof. I recall one such instance where former St. Louisan Don Bryant reprimanded me for selling his ’94 cab in a local restaurant for $125. Three years later (after near-perfect scores every year), the wholesale cost was $125; now it’s three times that! It’s simply supply and demand, folks, so here’s what I propose: Take your hard-earned money and find the next “cult cab” before Robert Parker and James Laube do. Here’s some advice from an insider on where to start. I urge you to go online and join their mailing lists soon ... That’s the only way you can get them.
- The 2004 Levy & McClellan Cabernet Sauvignon is a new project started by the husband-and-wife winemaking team of Bob Levy (from Harlan) and Martha McClellan (from Sloan). This wine is incredible—polished and accessible on the palate with ripe, high-toned dark red fruits, tobacco, leather and spice. The ’04 is the inaugural vintage, but I wouldn’t wait on this one, with that super vintage of ’05 coming up next year. (Approx. $400/bottle, levymcclellan.com)
- Although the mailing list is now closed, the 2005 Ovid Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine worth waiting for on the waiting list. Names like David Abreu (famed vineyard manager), Andy Erickson (winemaker at Screaming Eagle) and Michel Rolland (global wine consultant) mean only one thing: This has to be a fantastic product. (The release price is a relative steal given their salaries.) Big and rich, this wine will need a little time to loosen up, which fortunately coincides with your access to it. (Approx. $300/bottle, ovidwine.com)
- Owners Tom and Kyle Futo have unleashed the dream team of winemaker Mark Aubert and vineyard manager David Abreu on their coveted hillside vineyards in the western hills of Oakville. Their 2005 Futo Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine you can actually find that, comparatively, won’t break the bank just yet. Loads of dark berry fruit and firm but polished tannins will have you craving a steak … and reaching into your wallet to buy another bottle. Get on this list for next year. When the 2008 lands on your doorstep, you’ll be glad you did. (Approx. $200/bottle, futofamily.com)
