Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
One of the most confounding debates in the wine world right now is why Syrah (Shiraz in some locales) is getting the same cold-shoulder treatment that merlot did in the ’90s. Winemakers and sommeliers alike are perplexed at the outright aversion to Syrah by consumers. There is a lot of great Syrah out there, produced in the best wine regions; the problem, however, is there is just as much insipid—even horrible—Syrah being produced.
Syrah has been overplanted and overcropped to the extent that dull and uninteresting wines have resulted, similar to what happened to merlot in the ’80s. Australia, probably the biggest offender, flooded the market with these wines. Unfortunately, the myriad inexpensive wines of the world have diminished the long-lasting reputation of this noble grape. Another factor is the wide range of styles produced by this grape—from the herbaceous and peppery to the jammy, overripe, high-alcohol versions that are usually finished in new oak. Climate and region are no longer indicators of style, as Napa alone can produce both ends of the spectrum, depending on the production methods.
Syrah needs to be given a second chance. Understanding the styles and finding a producer you like can be a great journey, one where you’ll discover not only some amazing wines, but also some that’ll make you stop and think “Why haven’t I been drinking more of this?”
Que Syrah, Syrah: Great producers to seek out at your local wine retailer...
California
Alban Vineyards, Araujo Estate Arrowood Vineyards & Winery Colgin Cellars Copain Wines, DuMol, Edmunds St. John, Failla, Favia Erickson Winegrowers, Justin Kamen Estate Wines, Kongsgaard Wine, Lewis Cellars, Novy Family Wines, Peay Vineyards, Qupé Wine Cellars, Radio-Coteau Wine Cellars, Saxum Vineyards, Sean Thackrey, Sine Qua Non
Australia
Clarendon Hills, d’Arenberg, Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Elderton Wines, Henschke, Hewitson, Jim Barry Wines, Kilikanoon Wines, Lost Highway, Mitolo Wines, Mollydooker, Penfolds Grange, Pikes, Shaw + Smith, Torbreck, Yalumba
France
Thierry Allemand, M. Chapoutier, Jean-Louis Chave, Auguste Clape, Domaine des Lises, Domaine du Colombier, Domaine Pierre Gaillard, Domaine Yves Cuilleron, Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Alain Graillot, E. Guigal, Jean-Paul & Jean-Luc Jamet, Michel & Stephane Ogier, René Rostaing, M. Sorrel, Noël Verset, Alain Voge
