Photograph by Katherine Bish
Tequila has become a big business, with some big-name brands getting gobbled up by big-name corporations for obscene amounts of money (e.g., Herradura to Brown-Forman for $776 million) and a rise in new "ultrapremium" bottlings costing well over $100 per bottle. With several categories or styles for the ancient blue-agave elixir, tequila ain't just for shootin' anymore. The application should determine your selection—blancos are great for margaritas or other blended cocktails, while añejos best show their character when sipped.
My favorite, and the most versatile, is the reposado. A bit of aging has smoothed its harsh edges, yet it still retains the great fruitand- spice character that defines its spirit. This style emerged in the early '90s and has soared to new heights in the last few years. From a shooter to a drink to a snifter, reposados are the "utility men" of tequila. Seek out these classic representations:
Herradura Reposado | $42.99
Believed to have popularized this category, this tequila is aged in oak barrels for 11 months, yielding a long, soft mouthfeel with loads of ripe citrus fruits and smoky vanilla and subtle black pepper on the finish.
Corralejo Reposado | $45.99
Corralejo was the first commercial producer of tequila in Mexico, with copper-pot stills from Spain, wood-fired adobe-brick ovens, and French oak barrels for aging. Its reposado is citrus fruit–filled, with hints of white pepper and an exceptionally smooth and clean finish. Please! No lime and no salt.
Corzo Reposado | $54.99
Aged in small, white oak barrels, this tequila displays an earthy agave–and–black peppercorns profile; intense and very sweet agave flavors midpalate combine with a long finish of fruit and mild smoke.
Chinaco Reposado | $59.99
Aged for eight months in small oak barriques, it shows flavors of citrus zest, apple, and peach, with a hint of quince and green peppercorns on the long and slightly spicy finish. One of the fruitier reposados I've had. Try this one neat or on the rocks for the best display.
Know Your Tequilas
• Blanco or Plata ("White" or "Silver") is usually unaged and spends less than two months in-barrel.
• Joven ("Young") is either blended with rested tequilas or has caramel coloring and/or oak extract added to resemble aged tequila. (That's cheating.)
• Reposado ("Rested") is aged between two and 12 months.
• Añejo ("Aged") is aged anywhere between 12 and 36 months.
• Extr a Añejo ("Extra Aged") is aged more than three years.
About Our Expert: Chris Hoel, CSW, is the cofounder of St. Louis Wine Clinic and the former beverage director of Monarch Restaurant. He writes this monthly column from Napa Valley, where he is a sommelier at The French Laundry.
All four tequilas are available at Friar Tuck, 9053 Watson, 314-918-9230, friartuckonline.com.
