Photograph by Katherine Bish
As the leaves begin to blush, a Missouri wine pilgrimage is (forgive me, Bacchus) a must, especially when you consider there are now 70 wineries statewide. Highway 94 never disappoints, but this fall, consider a drive down Highway 55 to explore the up-and-coming gems near Ste. Genevieve, a town with a rich European culture that alone is worth the trip … but a little wine never hurts.
One of my all-time favorites is Chaumette Winery (chaumette.com), located in rural Ste. Genevieve County. Few people realize that Chaumette’s wines have been grabbing the attention of wine connoisseurs for years. The 2007 Dry Chardonel was selected as one of four Missouri wines to be presented at the International Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco last August. Soft citrus flavors of lemon and lime combine with light notes of spicy oak, with a long, lingering finish. Chaumette also has a destination spa, private villas for overnight stays, a pool and a superior restaurant, with talented chef Adam Lambay manning the burners.
The tasting room at Crown Valley Winery (crownvalleywinery.com) overlooks Missouri’s largest vineyard, and its 2002 Norton LE is a must-taste, with blackberry and white pepper, sublime tannins and a subtle and spicy finish. Pair the Norton with any of several superb varieties of locally produced Blue Bison sausage. For some prewinery adventure, nearby Hawn State Park is considered by some to be the best hiking venue in Missouri.
A relative newcomer to the area, with its first vines planted in April 2000, is Twin Oaks Vineyard & Winery (twinoaksvineyard.com), located near Farmington. The 2007 Dry Traminette is superior, with flavors of peaches, apricots, a lovely floral aroma and a Lionel Ritchie finish—as easy as a Sunday morning.
Also consider Cave Vineyard (cavevineyard.com), whose claim to fame is the wine cellar inside Saltpeter Cave. Visitors here are encouraged to return and “reserve the cave” for private events. The 2005 Chambourcin is the other crowd-pleaser here, medium-bodied with red and black fruits and notes of spice and cocoa.
Villa Antonio Winery (villaantoniowinery.com) offers more to taste than just wine at its four-season, alfresco restaurant. “Seven-course Saturday” is an all-evening adventure that begins with a predinner wine tasting. Fernanda “Nanda” Polesel prepares the authentic Italian specialties; her winemaker husband, Antonio, pairs the wines. If you’re lucky, he’ll suggest the 2006 Norton, spicy and sassy with dark fruit flavors of blackberry and black cherry, punctuated by cedar and unlit pipe tobacco.
