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Which came first, the chicken or the waffle?
We forget whether it was Jean-Paul Sartre or John W. Tyson who first asked that question, but regardless, it’s the combination of the two that’s been turning foodies' heads across the country for the last several years.
Locally, a straight-ahead version has been on the menu at Rich Connolly’s Goody Goody Diner (below left) for the last five years (half a chicken and a whole Belgian waffle for $10.95). Just last week, Goody Goody made Thrillist's "13 Best Places To Eat Classic Chicken and Waffles." At The Kitchen Sink, chef/owner Anthony Ellerson does a more-waffles-than-chicken iteration (below right), serving up five wing sections and two waffles for $8.00.
And the must-try word is out on John Perkins’ $18 iteration at Juniper (below) that arrives with pickled vegetables (onions and cauliflower), peanut butter, and a drizzle of Perkins’ sweet and tart “pickle juice” syrup. A little more of that, please...
But what caught our eye last week was the simple brilliance of Waffle Wing Pops, a creation of Bobby Tessler, chef/owner of the St. Louis Wing Co. The recipe is simple: coat warm, cooked drummies in waffle batter; place in a oiled, Belgian waffle baker (below left); then hold pressure on the lid until the waffle is cooked through. Serve with whipped butter and syrup (Tessler’s preference) or any one of the Wing Co’s 20 signature wing sauces. And for a double dose of decadence, Tessler will even sprinkle bits of bacon on top.
The dilemma is whether to eat the waffle portion first or bite through to the wing to savor both components at once. The cost is $5.99 for four waffle wing pops (below right), enough for you to try it both ways.
St. Louis Wing Co.
9816 Manchester
Rock Hill
314-962-9464
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Photo of John Perkins' chicken and waffle dish courtesy of Kevin A. Roberts