was held last night at 33 Wine Bar and although this event was a bit different than the last one I attended, the bloom is still on the rose.
You might have thought that Mark Sanfilippo and Ben Poremba (the salumieri of Salume Beddu) would have cranked out unusual salamis, coppas, and hearty, wintry sausages for the occasion, but instead they were tossing curveballs: a pureed, almond-garlic soup, with a single grape whimsically submerged for crunch and contrast; an almost indescribable, airy, tortilla pave containing veal brains (don't wince, it was delicious--my favorite course of the night); a square of olive-oil-poached tuna on a bed of garbanzo beans with salmon roe and harissa (Beans? Yes...very dorm room. Flavors? Absolutely great together...and I liked the beans).
My one quibble was that the first three courses were purposefully served cold. They were delicious, but cold. I understand it facilitated service but, you know, it was really cold outside. Redemption came in the fourth and fifth courses: a slow-cooked, 3-meat, green-olive-studded tagine followed by a Moroccan doughnut with a sticky, orange blossom glaze.
There was some backchatter that because of the limitations of "dorm room" cooking equipment, participating chefs had drifted away from items traditionally served in their respective restaurants. Doesn't matter. These dinners are true foodie events, they are pure fun, and since the 2-seatings-of-30 event is held but once a month, they are ridiculously hard to get into. I suggest calling Jeff Stettner at 33 and ask him--no, beg him--to get you in sometime. It's worth however long you have to wait. -- George Mahe
