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Quite frankly, we're surprised one hasn't popped up here sooner. We're speaking of the pop-up restaurant, of course.
During the last few years, St. Louis has experienced all of the latest food-themed trends--food trucks, farm-to-fork dinners (some actually held on respective farms), and Underground Restaurants--everything except the pop-up restaurant.
As with the aforementioned, a pop-up restaurant is a unique and economical way for a chef to either spread his name/brand or test drive a completely new idea. Such a restaurant has a run of one night to several weeks and is held in a location one might not expect a restaurant to well, pop up: a coffee shop, an unused catering space, an unusual studio or office, even, as will be the case here, a vacant restaurant.
For three consecutive weeks, the former John's Town Hall (most recently Caitlin's Green Eyed Grill) will be transformed into Demitasse 665, the city's first pop-up restaurant. Here's the capsule: 20 seats per night for 12 nights (spanning a 3-week period) serving one seven-course menu per week, wine pairings included (se above). The menus are postted on their Facebook page, here.(link)
Two years ago, Sandy Talley, an architect who was just itching to be a chef, started Demitasse, a loosely-interpreted version of an underground restaurant. His dinners were held at the same place (his home in University City) rather than at different, surprise venues. (Demitasse still holds an event one weekend per month, an experience Relish has written about (link) and endorsed. (link))
Due to spatial constraints, Demitasse events are limited to 14guests per night, so doing a pop-up was a natural extension, a way for Talley to expand his brand, and the John's/Caitlin's space in the Dorchester on Forest Park (at 665 N. Skinker) had the right size and layout to do just that.
The former bar area is being transformed into a receiving room, with area rugs, incandescent lighting, and upholstered sofas and chairs. If it looks exactly like Talley's living room in University City, well, it's supposed to.
On arrival, guests will be served glasses of Cava as they assemble and settle in, no doubt admiring the funky, old (and now shiny) copper-clad bar. Dinner will be served at a single, straight-line table for 20 (at left), complete with demitasse (which have their own story). If it looks just like a certain dining room in University City, it's supposed to.
As is Talley's custom, each of the seven courses have been tasted, tested, and tweaked. As is the case with some underground-type dinners, this is not a guinea pig event. Similarly, the wine pairings have been carefully selected by Talley and his partner Marie, his confidant and wine consultant. (Relish would love to snag a seat when all that happens.) There will be a wine expert on hand each night to explain the chosen wines. If it all seems well-organized and -orchestrated, it's supposed to.
Since it will be held during the Holiday party season (and after having received requests to book all 20 seats), reservations are being accepted for parties of either 10 or 20. If Demitasse 665 looks like a unique way to entertain a few friends, clients, coworkers, or your next supper club dinner, you guessed it, it's supposed to.
Reservations for smaller groups will be accepted only for the last two nights, December 16 and 17. The price for Demitasse 665 is $ 85 per person, all-inclusive--and yes, that means tax, gratuity, and parking valet. (Back into the cost for dinner just to see how reasonable this deal is.)
When his friends ask "what are you doing this for," Talley responds, "Who hasn't ever wanted to own a restaurant?" He elaborates: "It's the best of all worlds. I've worked in restaurants but could never make it a lifestyle...this way you can open it, close it, and then go back to what you were doing. Until the bug bites again."
Talley's intent is to provide a unique, one-time-only, here-and-then-gone experience, "restaurant quality food in a cozy, homelike setting" as he puts it. Makes sense. After all, up to now that's exactly what Demitasse has been.
Make reservations for the Demitasse pop-up (and for all Demitasse events) by emailing: demitasseunderground@gmail.com
