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For over 150 years, Busch's Grove has been a local gathering place, and now there are more--and different--reasons to maintain that tradition. And "tradition" seems to be the operative word here: historical photos show its progression from stagecoach stop, to store, saloon, local post office, and restaurant. .
By the time this writer became aware of Busch's, it had become synonymous with screened in-cabanas, properly-muddled mint juleps, a great Wednesday night barbeque, and highballs as strong as you made them at home. Bartender Walter "Butch" McBryan never, ever, forgot what you drank, yet never could quite figure out how to make a "light" scotch (Butch now tends daytime bar at Jimmy's on the Park).
Foodsters and well-heeled diners no doubt remember the last iteration of Busch's Grove, the restaurant...Lester Miller's extravagant transformation that offered up everything from 3-pound lobsters to sushi to Jeremy Davenport performing on stage --and what a time that was. Those who remember the Jeremy days, remember them fondly.
There are myriad theories for Busch's demise as a restaurant. The massive mahogany doors closed in 2008, only to reopen in 2009 as Busch's Grove Market, an ill-timed and perhaps too-ambitious attempt to enter the "gourmet grocery" business.
The basic concept has been rejiggered and reformulated--and maybe the timing is now better--for Busch's Grove - An Inspired Gourmet Market.
What's different? What's new? Why should anyone go there again...or for the first time? Several reasons:
Bakery - There's a young baker at the helm, Russell Ping of Russell's Cafe & Bakery. His Dark Chocolate Port Wine Torte, six layers of chocolate cake and chocolate ganache, was awarded "Best Dessert" at the Saint Louis Art Fair; I tasted his Pumpkin Gooey Butter Cake, a non-traditional recipe with a shortbread crust. I like a guy who takes chances with such hallowed recipes...especially when they work.
Soup Counter - A holdover from the first iteration of the Market, I defy anyone to come out empty handed. A dozen homemade varieties are available every day (6 are vegetarian, 2 are vegan), including Tomato Basil Parmesan; Shrimp and Goat Cheese; Lobster, Lavender and Sweet Potato; and my favorite, Oyster Artichoke Brie. Just as importantly, soups are held at the proper temperature (unlike other soup purveyors in town, who insist on holding their soups at such a high temp that cream soups separate and veggies/proteins turn to mush).
Specialty Items - Smartly, there are now products available exclusively at Busch's--good ones--like a custom brand of small-batch soft drinks and and a line of 6 salad dressings, including Ladue Bleu (gotta love that name) and Russ' Signature, named in the 60's when then-manager Russ Scanlon mixed a few salad dressings together to fulfill a customer's request for "something dramatically different." Russ' Salad, containing several types of seafood (and perhaps the Grove's best selling lunch item), was tossed in the pinkish, Louis-style dressing.
Chef's Demos - Local restaurant chefs will demo favorite recipes, after which the dish will be featured at the deli counter for a time.
Breakfast - The only place in 63124 to get a fried egg in the morning. Pair that with the WSJ and some Grove Blend signature coffee and call in late for work.
Convenience - Lots of parking and quick service at the counters and registers.
Charitable Shopping - Every Wednesday, between 7 and 9 PM, 20% of the store's sales will be donated to a specific charity.
Reasons Not To Go - Name brand items--you will not find basics like Campbell soups, Planter's nuts, or General Mills' cereals.
The store officially opened today; the Grand Opening is this weekend. Hours are from 7 AM to 9 PM daily.
